It all depends on how big your front T-bars are.
The best approach is to run the largest torsion bars that will fit (29mm) and then use the smallest front sway bar to limit the body roll. Then balance the car with the rear springs and rear sway bar adjustment.
In theory you could get by with smaller T-bars and a bigger sway bar, but the car will work better with big T-bars and a small sway bar. The bigger T-bars help keep the car from standing on its nose under hard braking. A bigger sway bar doesn't help in this regard. Also, the problem with a thicker sway bar is that it will pick up the inside front wheel. A limited slip will help overcome the wheel spin issue, but you still have the problem of reduced front grip from lifting the inside wheel, and you will still 'cook' the outside front wheel. You can probably make it work by playing with rear springs and rear sway bar settings, but the best solution is big front bars and a teeny-tiny sway bar. In my case, if I could find a bar smaller than the OEM Civic bar, I would run it.
BTW - I run Hoosier 20x8-13's on my car as well, and had the same sidewall 'rollover' issue from excessive body roll as well. This isn't as much of an issue with DOT tires since you typical ran lots and lots of negative camber, but slicks don't like much camber or else you start to eat the inside edges.
The problem with experimenting with different front sway bars is that they are a pain to swap out. That said, if you run back-to-back weekends you could experiment with a CRX bar one week vs a Civic bar another. I've heard rumors, but can't confirm it, that an 86-87 Integra bar is a similar shape but thicker and might fit, but don't hold me to it (the torsion bars and suspension design are similar). If you can get one from a boneyard to play with, give it a shot.
BTW - The nice thing about the Hoosier slick is you can put them on any corner in any direction, and you can also flip them over on the rim to help even out the wear. If you run at tracks with predominant corners (like Waterford) rotating/flipping the tires will help extend your tire life.
One other weird thing I have noticed (and a fellow Honda Prod driver noticed the same thing), you might experiment with a softer compound on the rear tires like a R45 or an R35 if it's cool out. This is counter-intuitive since most people think who cares what the rear does, put a hard compound in the rear to help the car rotate. But for some reason, the softer rear tire works better. I used to use the same compound on all four corners, and rotated the older heat cycled tires to the rear and put the new tires up front. Don't ask me why, but the car rotated better and felt more neutral with R45's on the rear and R55's up front. You don't need new tires on the rear, a set of take-offs will work fine and should last all season. But if you can get two R45 take-offs cheap, give it a shot. I occasionally run old R55's on the rear in practice to save the R45's for qualifying/race, just to limit the number of heat cycles.
I've also experimented with running a 7" tire in the rear with 8" tires up front. I had a bunch of 7" Avons left over from my first year of Prod racing. The car still felt better (more nuetral, rotated better) with the softer compound 8" slicks vs the zillion heat cycled 7" on the rears. Don't ask me why.
[This message has been edited by Greg Gauper (edited January 06, 2005).]
