Water/Oil Gauge Set for 1st Gen

I use AutoMeter Gauges in my car. Oil pressure on the left with the needle pointed at the tach in the middle of the cluster at 60 psi. Water temp on the right with the needle pointed at the tach at 190 degrees. That way when I check the tach, both needles are flat and pointed inwards and I don't have to read those numbers, I just automatically know that the systems are ok. I sit so low in the car that I can barely see over the dash and I can't see the hood at all therefore my main gauges are in my line of sight with the road so I can stay focussed on the track. My oil temp gauge is in the center console by my switch panel. If the water temp is off base I can easily check the oil temp by looking to the right. My water temp pich up comes off the back of the water pump. Oil pressure pick up is just below the oil filter area on the block and oil temp at the filter. Only use mechanical gauges. Never electric gauges. Hope this helps.

Mike Cox
#37 IT-7
CFR SCCA
 
Larry,

Well this is in our VW's not an RX but I can give options to a neighbor...

We used VDO gauges and senders. We measured the area we had (radio and small surrounding area) and drew in in ACAD. Then started laying out the gauges. We used the small VDO's and have no problem seeing them easily. We then made a panel out of some black 3/8" material and mounted it. Used the ACAD stuff for the template. I think we spent around $170 for the everything (wiring/gauges/senders/EGT/2 switches/1 pot). Then of course the TIME doing it all. If you want to see what we did, let me know, I am not to far away. Tonight will be "put the tranny back in night".

It was a fun hard race last time at MO. I think both of our tires will falling away at the same time. My new set is on the way...

Travis
 
A technique that I use and have seen others use is to rotate and orient all of the gauges in a row so that the needle is pointing up and vertical when all parameters are normal or optimum. This way all gauges (oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, fuel PSI, etc) can be checked with a quick glance. The abnormal reading stands out very clearly. If everythings good all needles are straight up.
 
Thanks all for the help. I'm still most interested in having the very obvious warning lights with the gauges. I don't want to cook another engine.

Travis, Hey Neighbor! I didn't know you used this forum. Your right we had a hard race...great fun. That was an interesting start to Sunday's race. Something bunched every body up front...I picked up a bunch of positions but gave them back up when I foolishly tried to see if fifth gear was working at the end of the back straight.

You were doing a great job in the braking zone at the end of the back straight, and your car is great in the twisty areas. I didn't have the stones to make the pass stick. Your right, I think I stretched my Hoosiers one heat cycle too many and my new rear end set-up is causing a huge push...so I'm having trouble turning in on most corners (never thought I'd have that problem in a 1st gen RX-7). Unfortunately I didn't notice the engine overheating so its cooked (died pulling into the pits after cool down). I had already lost fifth gear, too. So, I've got Steve Coletti lined up to put in another engine, tranny, clutch, etc. Getting bigger radiator and want better gauges. I may buy a set of Kumho's. But no Brat Bash for me this year.
We'll have to hook-up some time in the 'Boro.

Look forward to running with you again.
 
Originally posted by rlekun:
I didn't have the stones to make the pass stick.
Click to expand...

Don't tell us that! Let us think you were just being patient...waiting for a more opportune time. If we know you are lacking in the stones department it is that much easier to keep you behind us.

Racing is mental. I have a friend who has a rep for being very aggressive, especially on starts. It is so easy for him to gain spots on Lap 1 because people are scared. I've heard people mumbling on the grid about starting in the vicinity of him and he has had no contact in the last 3 seasons! I have raced with him for 8 years but never in the same class, until 2003. I am not initimidated by him and he knows that. We are both accustom to winning our share, now he's just going to have to get used to 2nd, aren't you Rick? Yeah I know that trash talking isn't my normal style. I look forward to the competition...
 
RLEKUN, http://www.sevensonly.com/ has a neat little aluminum block that goes under your oil filter and has threaded holes especialy made for auto meter oil press and oil temp gauges. it comes with longer studs and the new o-rings so its ready to install.

------------------
Daryl Brightwell
ITA Mazda #77
SFR, NORPAC
CSCC, SOPAC
 
I was going to say that your car is not as "darty" as most RX7's I get around - so from the outside I say understeer. After my teammate smoked me on the brakes down there in qualifing, I figured I could go deeper than I was, thanks. We both got a laugh out of that. I don't know what happend at the start but I went by Albright pretty fast. I didn't have the video going or I could show you your car from close proximity.

We used the stock dash lights for our oil warning and our eyes on the gauges otherwise. We did what Greg recommends in the mounting (twisting) - it ended up for us that the gauges look straight.

The lights we have been thinking about. I have some chips here at work that are real cheep and have at least 5 A/D inputs. It would be pretty easy to make a serial programable system to set the limits on your gauges and have it toggle one light or multible lights. Kindof a general "check gauges" light. It is pretty simple to do the regular lights like we have now but this should work for any gauge. Thinking.....
 
not yet Dave, they are very busy over there but im sure ill get it on there this fall. by the way thiers is a chassis dyno.
 
I'm looking strongly at the longacre type Panel with the lights already integrated or the Autometer Panel. WT/OT/OP equals about $165. Seems well worth it for the extra protection.

Quickshoe,

I didn't say I'd never have the stones to make the pass stick, just not that time...and i do prefer a humility-based approach.

Larry
 
Like Mike, above, I use Autometer gauges, so far Tach, Water temp, and Oil Pressure. I have them mounted directly in front of the stock panel, pretty much right up against the clear plastic cover of the stock gauges. I have simply drilled holes through the foam of the bottom part of the dash, and mounted the gauges with strong plastic snap-ties. Works great, and no trouble seeing the gauges. We need to leave the stock gauge panel in place in our class, but there is nothing in the rules saying I have to see the panel...I don't need the warning buzzers, as I don't think I'd even hear them. I have got into the habit of checking the gauges several times a lap
 
Ok I am still workin on my rx7, but I was planning on getting the autometer warning light box that lets you hook up three electrical guages and then you set up then you can mount warning lights remotely and set them to come on. Summit has it, I think it is called the tri-alert system. BTW, is mechanical gauges really that much better than electrical?
 
Carter "We need to leave the stock gauge panel in place in our class".

wrong.... we can replace stock gauge cluster with alum panel and aftermarket gauges per ITCS so long as dash remains intact.
 
7's, I am an interloper here, as I run a class in Canada called Challenge Cars, 1st Gen RX-7's with streetported motors, so our rules are just a bit different. Thanks anyway...
 
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