welded or quafe

T

Tim Dugan

New member
looking for a vote money versus reliability will a welded dif take the abuse on a 85 vw gti or dose sombody have a quafe for sale for short money. AAAAHUM ( Jason Benaugh ). Any ideas or sugestions are welcome thanks :smilie_pokal:
 
After paying for several different options...we keep coming back to WELDED.

Anyone want to buy some lightly used diffs?
 
Do you have a clutch style Lesley??????? please please please.... My tranny has been apart 5 times in the last year.......6 ain't going to hurt....

Peloquin poss for sale.....
 
Since your there, ya may want to change your FD ratio.....3.67 to a 3.89/3.94/4.25 ish...It depends on your race track configuration & Horse power....
 
If you are running the short 13s, and a stock cam/head class you might want to stick with the 3.67. If you are running stock diameter 3.94 it is.

Get the diff crack checked before welding. Also after. I have only seen one break, and it appeared to be due to cracks that were there when it was welded.

Don't turn the wheel much when backing up or you WILL break outer CVs. Otherwise it has not proven to be hard on parts for me.
 
Kind of defeats the cost objective. You can make a welded lighter, but I think they have released a 'lightweight' version since then.

I think the spool will be an improvement in reliability over a welded up 100k + mile diff.
 
Chris Abin has one that has been used once after a fresh rebuild with more aggressive friction material on the little friction disks. It is basically a quaife with friction surfaces as well.
 
My new 'box is getting a spool. I think we'll still run the gear diff for enduros but I'm confident the welded diff is faster - particularly where there's time to be gained on the curbs.

K
 
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