What do I look for in a trailer???

N

Newbie

New member
Hi all,

I bought a 2nd gen ITS RX-7 and now I need a trailer. Can somebody please tell me what I want!!!!

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport with the tow setup that is supposedly good for 5000 lbs. I think I'll need a brake set up to accomodate the trailer brakes. I assume an open trailer costs less, is lighter and has better wind resistance. I also assume I'll need a tire rack. What else am I missing, and about how much do these cost new or used?

My next car (wife's hand me down) is the Volvo SUV with the twin turbo engine. I could always get the hitch set up for that if the Montero is too wimpy.

Oh yea, I'm not planning on driving more than 2 hours away, but that may change as I get more into it.

Happy Holidays,

Steve
 
Whatever you get it should have tandem axles and excellent electric brakes.

I like aluminum open trailers because you can swing them around fairly easily.

Unfortunately, they can be quite exspensive.

A winch is nice too.
 
Steve,
Get a low trailer or be prepared to have some really long ramp. My trailer is 18 feet long on the deck, with a dove tail and brakes. I added a tire rack (dont' let the wife tell you that a welder is a waste of money) for about $50 in metal. Did I mention to maek sure the trailer is LOW. The SpeedSource style splitter/airdam won't clear a trailer like mine with the standard 4-5 foot ramps. Not even with raising the tongue of the trailer. I had to build some ramp extensions that make my ramps 10 feet long. If you are coming down to pick the car up, this will make life much easier when you arrive. Imagine arrive to pick up the car only to realize that you can't get it on the trailer. (That is a story to be shared only over a few beers though)
smile.gif


Be easy with the Montero. It has a relatively short wheelbase, so it might be a little less stable when towing.

I found that most of the used open trailers in our area were almost the same price as a new one. And they usually needed wiring or tires or both. I paid $1300 for mine, but that was 5 years ago. at the time, most used ones were around $850-$1000, depending on the work they needed.

Are you having the car delivered, or driving to pick it up? If driving to get it, try to find a trailer to buy near the car. Towing an empty trailer long distance sucks.

Jim
 
With a towing capacity of 5000#, you'll definitely want to look at the aluminum trailers. My 20' steel open trailer is listed at ~2500#, plus my car is 2350#, which doesn't leave much room for all the other stuff that goes with!

I bought my trailer from Johnson Trailer in Colfax, WI. They had, by far, the best deals I found for new trailers. If you'd like their information (no website that I know of), I can happily get it for you.

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Bill
Planet 6 Racing
bill (at) planet6racing (dot) com
 
One other minor detail, but it's more of a convenience issue, and easily overlooked....

Try to get a trailer with the deck high enough so that the car doors can open and clear the wheel wells when it's sitting on the trailer. Saves you having to crawl in and out the window when loading the car.....
 
Originally posted by Newbie:
I think I'll need a brake set up to accomodate the trailer brakes.
Click to expand...

Absolutely, and also think about a load-distributing hitch set-up as well. When I towed with a Jeep Grand Cherokee (another somewhat short-wheelbase tow vehicle), I found that the load bars helped tremendously with towing stability.

-noam
 
Steve-
I HIGHLY recommend a load leveling hitch. My first two years I towed with my Jeep Cherokee. It is similiar to the Montero in wheel base and tow rating. Before the hitch, I had to really make sure the trailer was loaded evenly (remember I was only towing a CRX). I figured with my steel trailer, job box for storage, and car, I was towing about 4500 lbs. The hitch made a world of difference. You could go 70 mph down Interstate 43 to Blackhawk with only one hand on the wheel. Before the load leveler, the Jeep was all over the place. Towing also puts alot of strain on that size platform. I finally said screw it and bought a year old Excursion in the spring of 2003 and thats my current tow vehicle. I agree with the previous posts. Get something low, with long ramps and a tail that is angled down rather than flat for easier loading and unloading. I have a winch, actually a boat winch, that we bolted to the front of my trailer. It makes life so much easier, especially if the unthinkable happens on the track, and the car can't be driven on the trailer. Definately go with an open trailer, and Greg makes a great point about being able to open the car doors over the trailer fenders. Hope this helps.
--Bill
 
Steve, I second Jim's warning - the SS splitter can be a real problem. I bought a 14'+ 2' dovetail because it fits in a standard garage but I'm not sure that the dovetail helps in this situation because the point where it angles down becomes a "high center." I suggest measuring the angle of the splitter to the tire and making sure that your combination of trailer and ramps will achieve that angle. It may well be that a flat trailer and long ramps is the best way to go. Like Jim, I built some stepped extensions and they work OK.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis
 
Steve, with what Greg said about the drivers side fender, I just build up a little 2x8x14 ramps with a plastic chauk attached to it, so I have something to "aim" for while driving the car on the trailer, and with the added 4" on the left front, the door clears the fender. If I were to do it again, I would run a 10-12 foot of 2x8 along that entire side of the trailer. Who cars if the car is "crooked" when it's on the trailer.

Just remember not to mount the tire rack too far forward. When it's full of tires, you might be overloading your tongue weight limitations of either the trailer of the hitch.

As far as load leving hitches, I don't need one. I tow with a Dodge 2500 4x4 club cab, short bed Turbo Diesel. When the truck is loaded with tools, parts, etc. and the trailer is loaded with the car, tires, and everyting, the ride height is PERFECTLY level, with the front and the rear of the truck. hehehe

I just hope that you don't have to tow over my big mountains, with either the Montero or the Jeep. Going up is hard, but coming down is even more difficult.

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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[This message has been edited by racer_tim (edited December 15, 2004).]
 
One issue that's not mention above is brakes on your tow vehicle. You are going to be VERY close to max for your capacity. Yes, a load leveling hitch will help it ride better, you may have enough power to pull it, but you also need to be able to stop in an emergency situation.

I have a Ford Super Crew with 4 wheel "dinner plate" sized rotors and have scared the sh*t out of myself when trying to stop quick. Of course, I shouldn't be drafting at 80 mph on the highway!!
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There's a reason they set the tow capacity at 5000 lbs...........

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Jeff L
#74 ITB GTi
 
No such thing as a load leveling hitch.

But a weight distrbuting hitch does exist. And they are quite helpful. They allow you to transfer some of the toung weight to the front of your tow vehicle. This helps a lot with braking and steering.

Most WD hitches also have adjustable height ball mounts so you can get the trailer level.

Put the weight of the tires up front on the trailer, and the car may need to be further back in order to keep the toung weight right. I bought an 18' without dove tail. That allows me do put the car pretty much anywhere I need it on the trailer. And if the toung is running really high, I put the car on backwards.

I used to worry about overall weight when I towed with my Dakota V6. The more I put in the bed of the truck, the better it tows. I would imagine the same will be true for you. Load up the tow vehicle as much as you can.
 
I apologize for using the incorrect term, I meant WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING hitch. Just a matter of sematics, I think it was understood what I was driving at as far as helping to redistribute tongue weight.
--Bill
 
To cover your car while towing? I don't think I'd try that. I made a lexan insert for my drivers window that I used for towing when it might rain. A couple if 'dzus' fasteners on tabs welded to the top of the door hold it in place.

It's also handy to pop in when you are parked in the paddock and the weather goes bad. Quicker than putting the car in the trailer.


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Ty Till
#16 ITS
Rocky Mountain Division
 
Originally posted by B Schley:
I apologize for using the incorrect term, I meant WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING hitch. Just a matter of sematics
--Bill
Click to expand...

Bill, a little too much coffee today?

I just wanted to correct the term so that if you go to buy one you get a WD hitch and not just an adjustable ball hitch.
 
APR 67-
This is what I hate about e-mail/message board posting. I didn't mean to sound like a jerk, but it came off that way in print. You are correct on the proper term for that hitch, I was technically wrong. Come to think of it, I did have kind of a lousy day at work yesterday, so I was in a bit of a touchy mood.
--Bill
 
"my car does not have windows"

Unless I've missed out on something, you have to have the passenger side window permanently in.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis
 
...you have to have the passenger side window permanently in.
Click to expand...

But it doesn't have to work. It would be pretty hard to talk me into replacing a bad window motor in the right side door of my race car, particularly since I travel in an enclosed trailer.


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Ty Till
#16 ITS
Rocky Mountain Division
 
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