What trailers do you use?

S

SubieSethie

New member
Hey everybody, I need some help deciding on what type of trailer I should buy. I have narrowed it down to this.
-Around $2000
-Open
-16'
-New
-Light as possible
I am not sure what brand to go with. I have looked at all kinds of trailers, but the Bri-Mar, Car Mate, and Big Tex seem to fit my requirements the best. As much as I would like an Alum. and enclosed trailer, they are too expensive for what I am looking for. What kind of features should I look for such as open/closed deck, ramp styles, etc.

Thanks,
Seth E.
 
You should be able to get a good 2 axle trailer w/brakes for around $1500 new and $1000 or less for a good used unit.

Aluminum will be more expensive but will be much lighter and easier to tow. Consider your future plans as well as how much junk you might carry.

Where are you located? This helps others chime in as to good deals if they know where you are from.

[This message has been edited by Greg Gauper (edited March 22, 2004).]
 
Thanks for your quick reply. I am located in CT. From the hand-full of trailer dealers I have been to, most new steel open trailers start at just over $2000. What brands go for less than that?

Later,
Seth E.
 
Seth

If you look in the archives, there was a thread started on Sept 8, 2003 on open wheel trailers by Gran Racing. There is some good information there. (If I knew how to link to old threads that would have been helpful!)

Jim
 
I got rid of my trailer and I'll tell you what sucked about it.

1. The stupid wiring never worked right. Next time I will buy new or near new.
2. When it rained, the wood got really slippery. Get grippy, metal ramps and floor. Maybe even have a winch.
3. The original ramps were too short. And were a B*#$& to put away. They should slide into the trailer or something similarly easy.
4. The car doors hit the trailer's fenders.
5. The tire rack hit the hood if you weren't careful.

But really, besides that it was perfect.
 
I bought my Big Tex new last year for $1500 even. Double axle, breakaway brakes on one axle, New tires, ramps etc.

The trailer suits my needs, but it definitely is not the stoutest in the world. It flexes a little bit, but it pulls really well. The ramps are too short and I still need to add decent tie down points.

Make sure that the trailer has new Trailer Tires as many trailer companies will use used radials.

Figure out how much your racecar weighs, then add at least 1,000 pounds for tools, tires, gas and spares +yourself and crew) then figure out how much your tow vehicle can pull.

------------------
Scott
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
 
I'll admit I went much higher than needed for our CRX. An all-aluminum open 2 axle 20 foot x 8.5 trailer from R&R cost me $4000. This unit comes with ramps that act as an air dam in front. We installed a SuperWinch-good idea actually. I had originally planned on a Bri-Mar 18' and learned that it like all steel trailers requires continuous maintenance (rust control) and weighs over 800 pounds more for its length than the one I have.

You are in CT and there are dealers for many brands close to you. Keep in mind what you are using for a tow vehicle. That is another reason for our aluminum one. A Dodge Dakota w/4.7L is a nice way to pull our setup to Pocono or Watkins Glen - lots of hills to both from Pittsburgh and no problem at all. I did not want a big truck nor do I have a place for one. It is very important to look at total weight of the truck as loaded and the tongue weight too.

I did a number of web based searches before winding up at Leonard Truck and Trailer near Akron for our trailer. I'm sure you will find what you want close to home.

Tow safe-race safe


------------------
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow
 
Seth,
I was hoping to get a real trailer this year, but now sure it will happen at this point. The two places I narrowed it down to are Econo-trailer in Claysburg PA and TP Trailers in Limerick (unfortunately not Lime Rock) PA - www.tptrailersinc.com. Also, www.applachianmfg.com.

Do you want a full deck or o.k. with a 20" runway width? $1,500 for two wheel brakes (run way) + $100 for 4 wheel brakes. Or $1,749 (full deck) + $100 for 4 wheel brakes. And yes, I'm from CT (near Hartford).

One more year for the ole tow dolly.

------------------
Dave Gran
NER #13 ITA
'87 Honda Prelude

[This message has been edited by gran racing (edited March 22, 2004).]
 
WARNING WARNING

DO NOT buy trailer with single axlwe brakes. Effective January 1 2003 frderal law REQUIRES brakes on ALL axles of trailers with gross weight of 3000lbs and up. If you are stopped you can receive aa fine, and you will not be allowed to move the vehicle until it is legal (IE brakes installed and operating on all axles) What a bummer to have happen on the way to the track.

I would much rather see you spending money on racing than filling the public coffers.

Chuck

Chuck
 
I had a cheapo AZ-Tex and then a cheapo Carson. Both served their purpose and provided trouble free towing for me. Neither one (16x7 2 axle w/brakes) were over $1200 NEW. Drawbacks--wood deck doesn't look good for too long. Had to fab ramps. Rails around perimeter too high to open doors on car. Tires are LightTruck.

I then bought a FF package that came with a Big Tex--sweet trailer, much higher quality.

The rally team I service for just purchased a new Big Tex car hauler. 16 x 8.5 Dual Axle with brakes on both axles, built in steel ramps that slide underneath rear deck from the rear (not sides). The deck is diamond plate with a beavertail. The rail is low. D-rings in deck. Heavy duty hitch. Trailer was about $2500 and should last a long long time.

One thing...a trailer built this well won't be light. I'd guess it is probably close to 2000#.
 
Aluminum (a Trailex) will be about double your budget.

Mine is 11 years old and requires a good bit of maintenance, but it is light and a dream to tow. You will not kill yourself moving it around by hand in the driveway, either.
 
Seth,
In central CT there is Bolton Motors, good trailers but closer to $2500 if I recall. Very solid, nice wheels, long ramps, long enough bed to mount truck box. Also, there is a place (can't remember the name) at the intersection of Rt 66 and 16 in East Hampton that had a steel open trailer I think was under $2K.

If you plan on keeping the trailer for more than 2-3 years, DO NOT get a wood deck. Also, get ramps that slide out the back, not the side.


------------------
Jeff L
#74 ITB GTi
 
Seth,
Do yourself a favor and go to Limberger Trailer Sales in Ellington, CT off of Rte 83. they have what you are looking for and have good prices.

------------------
Sam Rolfe
TBR Motorsports
#85 ITC VW Rabbit
#85 GP Scirocco
 
My last trailer had a wood deck that I cut a large hole in to work on the car under the trailer. I keep the car on the trailer in my garage and it's the next best thing to a lift. I just bought a brand new one here in west Tenn. for $1350: 14' + 2' dovetail, steel w/ open center, new wheels and tires, 1 elec. brake, 5' stowable ramps. Surely there is a generic maufacturer somewhere close to you.
 
Great response guys. This is exactly what I was looking for. I went to Limberger Trailer in Ellington to take a look at what they had. They had a Bri-Mar 16' open deck seems to fit my requirements pretty well. The open deck should keep the weight down a little and allow access to the underside of the car if need be. They want just under $2200 for this particular trailer, is that a good price? Since Limberger was the only place that sold the Bri-Mar's I have nothing to compare it to. The tow-vehicle will be a Ford F-150 with a 5800lbs tow capacity.

How should I tie-down the car once it is on the trailer? I used a U-Haul trailer once that had these nice straps that wrapped over the top of the front tires. Other people have told me that they attach their tie-downs to the underside of the car on the axles, etc. I like the idea of attaching to the tires because it wouldnt require me to go under the car to secure things or risk the possiblity of bending something.
Trailer-
http://www.bri-mar.com/carhauler.htm

Ideas for Tie-Downs-
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/catalog.c...egory&linkid=68

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/catalog.c...egory&linkid=69

Later,
Seth E.
 
Seth,

I found the typical tie down straps with ratchets at Sam's Club for about $12 each (bought 4). These had about a 20ft length strap that I shortened. For the front I hook to the tie down hooks under the front bumper, then under a cross bar on the tongue.
For the rear I use axle straps with "D" rings on both ends. Loop them around the rear axle, hook the straps to the "D" rings and then hook to the rear of the trailer Left to Right and Right to Left, "X" pattern.

I used the tire straps in the past, and was not 100% comfortable with how they fitted. Depending on the width of the tire, the height of the tire, how much room between the tire, fender, and backside of the wheel well you have to work with, determines how well the harness fits (and how well you can get your hand behind the tire to fit the harness). Then the hooks on the harness need to reach the hook points on the trailer.

Todd
 
For your benefit, there are a number of ways to tie a car down. Many use the "X" pattern with ratchets and hooks and others use something different. We have had very good luck using the M&R ratchet straps with twisted capture type J hooks for our CRX. I run them from the embedded D rings to the factory tiedown points without crossing over. Our trailer is huge compared to some mentioned at 20' and never I have had a problem getting under the car to get to the points. Since we also have a winch my plan for this year is to use it as well as a safety tiepoint for a strap that has a hook on each end.
Make usre that your D-rings are mounted properly regardless of method of tiedown. There seems to also be some concern as to whether one should allow the car to "float" on the suspension or hold it firmly down. Our setup is very comfortable. Good luck and yes a Bri-mar is a nice product.

------------------
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow
 
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