What type of lighting for the VIR 13 hour race?
- Thread starter Newbie
- Start date
This is one of those projects that can suck time, money, and fun out of your life - both before and during the enduro. Spend a LOT of time making sure that you get it right, before you get to the track. There always seem to be last-minute ghetto engineered light projects and bad lights WILL cost you time. Advice...
** Figure out a way to mount them quickly during a stop when it gets dark - the best answer is to put the lights on some kind of frame/structure that only goes on one way so they are aimed when they go on. More than a few cars that start with lights mounted will get them busted or mis-aimed before they turn them on.
** Don't fall into the trap of aiming them all over heck's half acre - crossing them or "pointing them at the apex" often turns into "pointing them where they don't do any good." Spend time aiming them individually in real darkness before you get there. Remember that changes in ride height will make adjustments necessary (ask me how I know this).
** Make sure they are firmly mounted - wobbly lights are pretty annoying. But they might be MORE annoying to those you are following than to you, so decide what your priorities are.
** There's no such thing as a real "kit" but do buy GOOD wiring packages and relays to go with your lights. Hella makes particularly nice ones, available separately from lamp assemblies.
** Do some math to know whether your charging system is going to be overtaxed by lights. The formula is Amps = Watts/Volts. If you have 1000W of bulbs burning your charging amperage needs to have some safety margin over 1000/13 = ~77amps. If you have a 50A alternator, you are probably in touble in this example.
** Bulbs make light, lenses and reflectors make visibility - buy good lamp assemblies. Brightness alone won't do it if you aren't putting the light where you need it. Again, years of rallying has made me a Hella fan but there are other quality parts out there.
** More is generally better...
When I saw someone post that we had so much light that we "were dangrous," I figured we had about enough. Ours are on the regular dimmer stalk (pulled + from the high beam circuit to activate the relays) so we can dip them when passing, being passed, or pitting.
See you at VIR - even in the dark.
Kirk
** Figure out a way to mount them quickly during a stop when it gets dark - the best answer is to put the lights on some kind of frame/structure that only goes on one way so they are aimed when they go on. More than a few cars that start with lights mounted will get them busted or mis-aimed before they turn them on.
** Don't fall into the trap of aiming them all over heck's half acre - crossing them or "pointing them at the apex" often turns into "pointing them where they don't do any good." Spend time aiming them individually in real darkness before you get there. Remember that changes in ride height will make adjustments necessary (ask me how I know this).
** Make sure they are firmly mounted - wobbly lights are pretty annoying. But they might be MORE annoying to those you are following than to you, so decide what your priorities are.
** There's no such thing as a real "kit" but do buy GOOD wiring packages and relays to go with your lights. Hella makes particularly nice ones, available separately from lamp assemblies.
** Do some math to know whether your charging system is going to be overtaxed by lights. The formula is Amps = Watts/Volts. If you have 1000W of bulbs burning your charging amperage needs to have some safety margin over 1000/13 = ~77amps. If you have a 50A alternator, you are probably in touble in this example.
** Bulbs make light, lenses and reflectors make visibility - buy good lamp assemblies. Brightness alone won't do it if you aren't putting the light where you need it. Again, years of rallying has made me a Hella fan but there are other quality parts out there.
** More is generally better...
When I saw someone post that we had so much light that we "were dangrous," I figured we had about enough. Ours are on the regular dimmer stalk (pulled + from the high beam circuit to activate the relays) so we can dip them when passing, being passed, or pitting.
See you at VIR - even in the dark.
Kirk
RacerBowie
New member
Hehehe. They are really going to hate us!
Duh. There are actually some 2nd-gen RX7s rallying now so someone may indeed be making a light pod for them. Try posting at http://www.specialstage.com or contact http://www.rallylights.com
K
K
lateapex911
Super Moderator
I just installed some HIDs on my old 911. And they rock. I second the rallylights link. They are very cool guys who know their stuff.
Heres a link for some HID components:
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modu...sp#90mmHIDXenon
Heres a link for some HID components:
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modu...sp#90mmHIDXenon
Kirk overlooked upgrading your stock headlights. The www.hellausa.com website has a brochure where you can see their products. You could get into replacing the stock lights with inserts and the offroad/ legal in Canada bulbs. A source closer to home may be a multi store parts jobber or the local offroad shop, as they do tend to like lights on those jacked up 4x4s.
From the VIR 13hr Supps:
Replacement headlights MUST fit into the original moldings. Up to four (4) additional lights (fog or driving) may be mounted (no higher than the bottom plane of the windshield) at the front of the car (on the bumper where possible).
The key point here is that in order to be totally 'legal' you need to use low profile add-on lighting.. no higer than the bottom plane of the windshield.
Also. DO NOT mount them in front of the front bumper plane. The reason should be obvious
Bill
Replacement headlights MUST fit into the original moldings. Up to four (4) additional lights (fog or driving) may be mounted (no higher than the bottom plane of the windshield) at the front of the car (on the bumper where possible).
The key point here is that in order to be totally 'legal' you need to use low profile add-on lighting.. no higer than the bottom plane of the windshield.
Also. DO NOT mount them in front of the front bumper plane. The reason should be obvious
Bill
Kirk, I've seen your car before and been in front of it I wasn't pointing any fingers! I just wanted the new guys to be aware that you need to consider placement so that you don't interfere with driver vision. Something thats easy to overlook if your dealing with a flat hood car.
Bill
I wasn't pointing any fingers! I just wanted the new guys to be aware that you need to consider placement so that you don't interfere with driver vision. Something thats easy to overlook if your dealing with a flat hood car.Bill
Great stuff guys,
For $325.00 (delivered) I got high output xenon head lights, a high output driving light KIT, and high output fog lamp KIT for seeing the apex's. It will add an additional 16.3 watts of drain on my electrical system, which I'm told is nothing. Will at ralleylights.com was very helpful.
Now to get them mounted and wired and I should be good to go.
Thanks for the help. See you at VIR, even at night.
Steve Smyczek
the Felix Wankels
For $325.00 (delivered) I got high output xenon head lights, a high output driving light KIT, and high output fog lamp KIT for seeing the apex's. It will add an additional 16.3 watts of drain on my electrical system, which I'm told is nothing. Will at ralleylights.com was very helpful.
Now to get them mounted and wired and I should be good to go.
Thanks for the help. See you at VIR, even at night.
Steve Smyczek
the Felix Wankels