windshield clips optional for IT and needed for Prod.

T

tom91ita

New member
i'm going to add aluminum windshield clips and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for how to bend to the proper contour and how to attach.

don't want a stress point on the glass and want to have it bent to be almost touching and not look like a hack(saw?) job.

tia, tom
 
Tom, I understand rubber has weight, but if you were to install a 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick strip of rubber between the alum strip & the glass the deal would be complete.

Have Fun ;)
David
 
Tom,

To add my 2 cents, we split fuel line (rubber) tubing, put that over the end of the clips (glue into place) and bend the clips so the rubber is touching the windshield. We just used a vice (put a rag around the metal to keep from messing up the aluminum) and used riv-nuts to attach them. The key is that the clips are there to hold the windshield in place if the seal fails too, so there is no need to put any extra stress on the glass. It's really a fairly easy thing to do, and have it come out looking good also.

Mark
 
Tom, like Mark said, just put them in a vice, and hammer them to the correct shape. This alum bar stock is CHEAP so you can trial and error for not lots of money. Once you get 1 done the way you like, it's easy to bend the others to match.

In the case of Prod, you can go with Lexan, so the clips might do "more" than it IT. The picture I have, is with the stock glass windshield. Since then, I've gone with a Lexan NASCAR take-off front shield, and have just "glued" the shield into place with a good Silicon RTV.

On the rear window straps, I put some rubber on the inside, since they do vibrate because of the length.

http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/2001/rear-window-straps.jpg needs a little more creative "bends"
 
Remember that if you are going to a Lexan windshield (Nascar takeoffs are the way to go), you also need 3 straps (bars?) on the inside as well. Use Tims rear straps as an example, put them on the inside, and use door molding foam tape to brace the Lexan outward. The only other consideration is the spacing of the braces for visability, while keeping them spaced well enough for support @ 130 mph plus.
My personal experience is that they disappear while you're racing, 'cause if you're only looking ahead as far as your windshield, you are in trouble anyway.
All of Tims advice is spot on IMHO.
Good luck,

Mark
 
Try some 1/8" thick x 1" wide aluminum strip from Lowe's. Make a "flat" Z out of the clip, so that the part of the clip that is above the windshield is parallel to it. It's easy to glue a strip of inner tube or rubber on the underside of the clip so the metal doesn't contact the glass. To attach the clip to the roof, I use 1" long button head cap screws, 1/4x20 thread, with a washer on the underside and a nyloc lock nut. The button head cap screws and lock nuts are easy to find: www.mcmaster.com While you're there, order the aluminum strip as well.

I doubt a pop riveted clip would keep the windshield in in a hard impact, but who knows?

To keep the clips from getting marred while bending, I just use a couple of pieces of 2x4 in the vise. This gives you a nice little radius on your bends too.

MC
 
A vise and light hammer seem fine for shaping the clips.
I have used double faci moulding tape to attch the clip to the glass.
It is very strong but is made of foam to allow for some movement.

Todd
944 ITS
 
A piece of Scotch Brite will take the mars off the Al bar. There are other ways that are probably more expensive than the Lowes material, but there have been many a car win big time races with that on them!

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top