Wiring harness????

Speed Raycer

Speed Raycer

New member
Wondering who runs the factory wiring on your RX7's, or who's bypassed the factory stuff and ran their own?

We're getting ready to run our own wiring harness this weekend on our ITA RX7. We're putting in our own guages and toggles for the starter and fuel pump, and keeping the rear window and gas door releases. We're planning on adding our own fuse block and junction block out in the open to make it easy to get to.

What do we have to make sure is still hooked up underhood and underdash?

Anything to watch out for?

oh...We know we have to keep the factory stuff in the car
smile.gif


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The only things I used the stock wiring on my 2nd gen for were the ignition coils, CAS, OMP and the tailights. Everything else is my wiring, switches and fuses. Not saying that's THE way to do it. Just the way I did it. If you're going to use your own instrumentation then you almost have to do it that way.

Chris
 
I saw this post last night but it pained to answer it, but I guess I must.
Speed, I have been working on cars all my life, have a recent degree in digital electronics, am now working on molecular absorbant vapor exchange resins for Dow Chemical.
the only way you can remove all the things you have to remove to race and keep the stock wiring intact would be if you personally do a Vulcan mind melt with the sixteen Japanese electrical engineers that designed it in the first place allthough that would be impossible because im pretty sure their all institutionalized.
I have just spent the last two weeks trying to use the stock harness and last night I wadded it up in a ball and duct taped it under my dash, three hours later I had rewired the ignition, tail, brake, and starter.
I believe if you can do it legal than do it, but this is an area where we all know, you cant win.

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Daryl Brightwell
ITA Mazda #90
SFR, NORPAC

[This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited February 15, 2002).]
 
LOL... you're not kidin 7's. I sat there after I posted this topic and looked at the wiring diagrams and just kept saying WTF????

The main thing I'm concerned about is the starting system.

Not to sound like the "boinger" that I am, but what/where are the CAS and OMP?
 
if someone can tell me how to post a picture here ill scan and post the diagram I drew out that makes it painless, its very simple.
first thing I had to do is figure out what color "L" was.

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Daryl Brightwell
ITA Mazda #90
SFR, NORPAC
 
You have to have an image hosting servise like photoisland or maybe your ISP provides you with a hosting service. You then link to the image by putting [img ] web address [/img ](without the spaces between the g and the ])
If you dont have a hosting service, send it to me at home and I'll try to post it tonight during my lunch hour.

[email protected]

[This message has been edited by Speed Raycer (edited February 15, 2002).]
 
I s&*(canned my stock harnesses and did the complete re-wire myself. One mistake I made was on the solenoid operated release mechanisms (fuel door, hatch). I used a toggle and just told myself click it on then off....well of course I forgot to turn it off one time. That's all it took...burned up the solenoid. Didn't realize it until it was time to refuel and the door wouldn't open. Make sure you use a mommentary ON switch (such as the stock one)
 
We just went ahead and used the stock switches on those and ran toggle switches for the system "On/Run" and wiper and a momentary pushbutton "Start"

We've yet to run the kill switch (probably this weekend) but everything is run from the Kill switch to the ON/Run toggle (with a fusable link between), back to a 4 blade fuse block, then from there to everything else. The fuel pump is wired hot from the Kill switch but relayed to turn on when the ON/Run switch is flipped.

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Scott
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
Izzy's Custom Cages
SRsRX7.jpg


[This message has been edited by Speed Raycer (edited January 05, 2004).]
 
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