Woot Finally got the car I was looking for!!

G

Griso Gray

New member
Just Purchaced a 1996 Red Integra GS-R all stock straight and unmolested cant wait to share my build with you guys. Planning on setting up Motec telemerty to help with setup and a M84 for Engine management. I'm sooooo excited right now i can barely contain myself lol.
 
Building the parts pile

Ok started looking around at parts. This is what I have so far

Engine Management:
AEM ems 1000 "had it chilling in my tool box"
AEM Widband guage and sensor "stole it and the cluster guage pod from my wifes car lol"
AEM Short Ram intake
OBD2 to OBD1 conv. harness
Walbro 255 pump

Maintance junk:
Gates raceing T-belt with new pump and pulley
new OE fuel filter
NGK V-power BKR7E-11 and blue wire set
New OE "Honda/TEC" Cap and Rotor
Radiator hoses and bulk replacemnt heater hose
Previously Tortured :o Fluidyne radiator

Engine Parts: "have not ordered any of this stuff yet going to drive on the street for a bit and get some stuff sorted"
JE 10:1 0.040" oversize Forged Pistons
Honda OEM Gasket kit
Honda OEM Oil Pump
Guides and Valves
ARP Head studs
Bearings "Will have to color code or just get generics"

Trans:
ACT Mod clutch disc with Heavy duty Presure Plate
New Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing
M-Factory LSD
"Will eventually get Carbon Syncros and a diffrent final drive ratio gear set"

Suspention"
ASR 23mm rear swaybar "Will upgrade to the 32mm if needed"
D2 coilovers "will have to get diffrent springs"
Enegery Suspention master kit and trailing arm bushings
MOOG replacement balljoints

Brake:
Russell S/S brake hoses
Hawk Blue front and rear pads
Integra RS brake hard lines and 40/40 prop valve "ABS Delete"
ATE Blue racing fluid


Ugg just looking at this stuff makes my knuckles hurt. Thankfully I have alot of the really Spendy stuff sitting around from my boss and my old Drag car days. Will post pics as soon as I get some time to get started on the suspention. Hopeing to do a few track days with the car before I get serious about the Cage/Seat mounting.

Any Suggestions on Springs, wheels and tires would be great! Thanks in Advance....
 
Ohh no underdrive pulley was talking about the tensioner. YES bad things happen w/o a dampened crank pulley. I dont think it would pass tech anyways did not see it mentioned in the GCR.

Yes the shift light will be eventually be a Dash setup like the AiM, MoTec or just an LED light bar.

Were a MoTec dealer so i'm kinda a fanboy :rolleyes:

Know anything about the Canton Road race pan? I like the extra shelf it has above the main sump.

Those wheels look like 38MM offset with 5.50" backspace. Good Tiresize?? 205/50/15?
 
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Griso Gray said:
Ohh no underdrive pulley was talking about the tensioner. YES bad things happen w/o a dampened crank pulley.
Click to expand...

I have never experienced this. Honda/Acura engines are internally balanced, so a balancer and/or harmonic damper is not necessary. Bob, the article you linked to is nice, but remember it is from a company that makes harmonic dampers. Unorthodox Racing will have a similar article about why a solid damper is OK (which, technically you shouldn't necessarily believe either since they sell solid dampers). Get out to the track and talk to other racers to get the real story. Bob is pretty experienced, so he may have some personal experience to supplement his suggestion...

Griso Gray said:
I dont think it would pass tech anyways did not see it mentioned in the GCR.
Click to expand...

Tech doesn't really care about your damper and if your engine blows up, only safety and legality. Since you haven't posted a desired class, I can't say if a solid pulley is legal. Crank pulleys are free in IT now (only the drive type must remain stock). If you post a desired class, there are plenty of people on here knowledgable about SCCA and/or MC classes, and would be happy to help you with rules questions.
 
Griso Gray said:
Ok started looking around at parts. This is what I have so far

Engine Management:
AEM ems 1000 "had it chilling in my tool box"
AEM Widband guage and sensor "stole it and the cluster guage pod from my wifes car lol"
AEM Short Ram intake
OBD2 to OBD1 conv. harness
Walbro 255 pump

Maintance junk:
Gates raceing T-belt with new pump and pulley
new OE fuel filter
NGK V-power BKR7E-11 and blue wire set
New OE "Honda/TEC" Cap and Rotor
Radiator hoses and bulk replacemnt heater hose
Previously Tortured :o Fluidyne radiator

Engine Parts: "have not ordered any of this stuff yet going to drive on the street for a bit and get some stuff sorted"
JE 10:1 0.040" oversize Forged Pistons
Honda OEM Gasket kit
Honda OEM Oil Pump
Guides and Valves
ARP Head studs
Bearings "Will have to color code or just get generics"

Trans:
ACT Mod clutch disc with Heavy duty Presure Plate
New Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing
M-Factory LSD
"Will eventually get Carbon Syncros and a diffrent final drive ratio gear set"

Suspention"
ASR 23mm rear swaybar "Will upgrade to the 32mm if needed"
D2 coilovers "will have to get diffrent springs"
Enegery Suspention master kit and trailing arm bushings
MOOG replacement balljoints

Brake:
Russell S/S brake hoses
Hawk Blue front and rear pads
Integra RS brake hard lines and 40/40 prop valve "ABS Delete"
ATE Blue racing fluid


Ugg just looking at this stuff makes my knuckles hurt. Thankfully I have alot of the really Spendy stuff sitting around from my boss and my old Drag car days. Will post pics as soon as I get some time to get started on the suspention. Hopeing to do a few track days with the car before I get serious about the Cage/Seat mounting.

Any Suggestions on Springs, wheels and tires would be great! Thanks in Advance....
Click to expand...

Double check the rules for your wiring conversion and pay particular rules to any of the ancillary components you have to swap out to get it all to work (i.e. distributor).

10:1 custom pistons? Not sure if that's stock CR but it's gotta have the OE profile/dimensions. Can go higher on compression per rules but I thought that was typically via shaving the head. Not sure that you can do so via pistons. You'll want custom cam gears to bring the timing back to spec.

I'd talk to Steve Eckerich about one of his diff's... could also get one from the guys at OPM too.

Carbon syncros aren't legal... OE type parts only.

You'll want more rear bar. Seriously.

I know nothing about the coilovers... Koni's with GC perches are a great option too. Much more turn-key and probably easier to get close with the valving right off the bat. You'll want a bunch of spring up front and even more in the back.

ES Poly bushings aren't the end of the world but sphericals are better. Chris Brinson makes some amazing parts for the DC chassis that nobody else has developed. You can find some of his stuff in the Fabrication Forum over on roadraceautox.com. Also take a look at the big rear trailing arm spherical bearings...

Look at Raybestos ST-43 pads for the front. Great stuff.

Tires... 225/45 15 Hoosier R6's. They'll fit just fine on 15x7's.

I'm sure it's on your list but you'll want new hubs/bearings and then want to watch/replace them on a pretty regular basis. Plan to do it annually.

Plan to add some sort of proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

On the lightweight crank pulley... don't believe all the hype. You can swap out to a non-damped design and not have any issues. You'll want to balance the entire lower rotating assembly with the flywheel/PP installed.

There's some good gains to be made in exhaust/header and intake design/length. Off the shelf stuff will get you close but not all the way there.

Best of luck!

Christian
 
The Class i'm shooting for is SCCA ITS. Great Feedback!

I reconcidered the D2 Coilovers and have setteled on KsportRR 2way non-remote coilovers they come with what ever spring rate that you wish to order them with. Will probably start with 700front and 1000rear. But will most likely have to go heavyer.

Yes i'm thinking that the 32MM ASR upgrade will be a must have.

On the Pistons I called JE and they have sayed that the dimentions are indentical to the stock replacements but i will have to verify this for myself.

Was concidering a Bisimoto or Hytech header with a 2.5" exahst system.

Good point on the hubs and bearings will be a must during the suspention rebuild. Think ARP wheel studs are worth the money?? Or just get replacements during my drag racing days we did put extended length ARP or Blox studs just for an extra saftey factor.
 
Figured that it was ITS based on the car...

I'd seriously recommend looking at a shock with a stronger motorsports background... KSports aren't the droid you're looking for. Koni/Moton/JRZ/Penske... yes. Your rates are in the right range to start with assuming you go with the big rear bar. If your car starts to eat axles, then it's too low and/or needs more front wheel rate (via spring or bar).

Both Bisi and Hytech make good stuff or get one of the availabile exhaust simulators and give your specs to Burns.

I prefer extended ARP style studs as they're easier to work with and swap wheels onto.

Read the rules a couple more times and then post questions before you buy parts so you don't end up with something you can't use!

Christian

edit & PS:
I thought I saw some info on KSports before... take a look at the differences in valving from one shock to another.
KsportFrontFinal.jpg

KsportRearFinal.jpg

Lifted from: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?123666252-Truth-about-K-Sports[/URL]
 
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Holy Smokes Yeah the Koni type 2800 series Dampers are about as good as it gets but 1000+ dollars per corner :blink:. Mabee i'll save up enough for them in time lol.

Thinking the Koni"RACE" series shocks are going to have to be what i'm looking for. Along with some Ground control adjusters. I'm going to have to dust off the Geometry book and figure out what springs and in what style i'll be looking for. Mains and helpers or mains and tenders or just mains assuming that these race shocks don't have a ton of droop.

Ok cage question would an autopower cage be a good place to start and just add in extra bars? I know I have a metric ton of saftey items to worry about this winter Seat, belts, Window net, Hans device, Suit ,underwear ,gloves ,socks ,boots ect.
 
Griso Gray said:
Holy Smokes Yeah the Koni type 2800 series Dampers are about as good as it gets but 1000+ dollars per corner :blink:. Mabee i'll save up enough for them in time lol.

Thinking the Koni"RACE" series shocks are going to have to be what i'm looking for. Along with some Ground control adjusters. I'm going to have to dust off the Geometry book and figure out what springs and in what style i'll be looking for. Mains and helpers or mains and tenders or just mains assuming that these race shocks don't have a ton of droop.

Ok cage question would an autopower cage be a good place to start and just add in extra bars? I know I have a metric ton of saftey items to worry about this winter Seat, belts, Window net, Hans device, Suit ,underwear ,gloves ,socks ,boots ect.
Click to expand...

Koni RACE will be just fine. They win lots of races. Get the Koni threaded sleeves, they are a little nicer than the Ground Control ones, IMO. Just main springs. Get the spacers with your koni sleeves to run 2.5" springs. 2.25s are a tiny bit lighter, but used 2.5s are EVERYWHERE for cheap.

Cage: Assuming you have welding skills, for a GSR I actually think I'd call Kirk Racing in Alabama and get them to send you a "You weld it" kit. They've done lots of GSR cages, and the last one I saw was very nice and very strong. If you DON'T have welding skills, the people here can point you to a good cage guy near you.
 
Where are you located? There are some cage guys in the North East that do incredible work, know the IT rules Re: cages and won't break the bank. My personal favorite is Matt Kessler.
 
welcome to the fun...

GSR parts are everywhere. this is a good and bad thing for you, as there are good and bad parts available. don't be affraid to ask if you don't know the quality of a part - remember that what roadracing needs is different from drag racing in terms of suspension, brakes, and pretty much everything else, so don't expect that good experiences with a product in a strait line will necessarily corelate to good success on the road race track, though in many cases they do. you have seen a lot of good feedback already.

I'll add comments about brake pads: Hawk makes a newer line called DTC. you'll likely enjoy the DTC-60s. porterfields are known to be good as well, and there are good compounds from carbotech and cobalt, and others. Hawk Blues are the old standard, and while they work well, newer compounds are better in a lot of ways including feel, modulation, wear, and rotor friendliness.

harmonic dampers - you will have better throttle response without, but theoretically better engine life with. we've eaten an oil pump over the bumpy paving at sebring but I don't know that a damper would have helped that. supposedly you will see more peak HP on a dyno with a damper but the acceleration decrease will tend to hurt you more on a road course.

engine wiring is a strange topic these days. certain sensors can be added or replaced (MAP, TPS) while others must be equivalent to stock. crank position can only be used where it was available as stock, and distributor internals are open, but you must use the distributor to dole out the spark to the cylinders as was done from the factory. you may use a OBD1-2 adapter to your ECU or even rewire from a MoTec to the engine so long as you keep the stock harness in the car and use only the stock or allowed alternate sensors. you'll find that distributor signals fluctuate due to the belt drive, and it's often easier to go to a lower resolution signal than a higher one to avoid the noise. make sure you read the GCR, particularly the ITCS before cutting anything.

Remember the golden rule in IT is "IIDSYCYC" (If It Doesn't Say You Can, You Can't). there's a lot of performance paradigms that IT breaks. be aware - and when in doubt, ask.

post some pics and keep us updated!
 
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Be careful in thinking about pulley's. Dampening is different than balancing. I agree that the engines are ballanced, that's not what the pulley dampening is there for. In my years, I saw a B18 World challenge motor break a crank shaft, also saw my B16 fail an oil pump, both with solid pulleys. I have also seen a stock honda dampened pulley fail due to the rubber shearing. (ps - If you ever have a mysterious overheating problem, make sure your pulley isn't sheared!)

I'm involved in the area of industrial compressor designs, all I know is undampened vibrations can grow to huge levels. After reading Larry's article, his reasoning made perfect sense to me. Perhaps the pulley is overkill, but we are focused on endurance racing and not very tolerant about breaking things.
 
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The engine that was overheating was a K motor TSX. I believe they have a serpentine belt. Sorry for the confusion. Too many honda's to keep track of!
 
My boss is donating a ATI Superdamper to the "cause" I also dug up an AEM PS underdrive pulley from the depths of my Toolbox! :D

I'm in process of reworking my suspention bushings getting ready for the Shock/Spring/Swaybar/Balljoint/Hub/Wheelbearing/Stud/replacement. Next will be Header/Pipes then Tires and Wheels hopefully hit a Track day session if MAM is not still under water. Before the snow flies. I'll get some pics up as soon as i have somthing fun to photo.
 
Griso Gray said:
My boss is donating a ATI Superdamper to the "cause" I also dug up an AEM PS underdrive pulley from the depths of my Toolbox! :D

I'm in process of reworking my suspention bushings getting ready for the Shock/Spring/Swaybar/Balljoint/Hub/Wheelbearing/Stud/replacement. Next will be Header/Pipes then Tires and Wheels hopefully hit a Track day session if MAM is not still under water. Before the snow flies. I'll get some pics up as soon as i have somthing fun to photo.
Click to expand...

Griso, where do you live?
 
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