Door gutting

jwesleyc3

jwesleyc3

New member
Carpets, center consoles, floor mats, headliners, sun roof liner and frame, dome lights, grab handles, and their insulating, attaching or operating mechanisms may be removed. Door interior trim panels may be replaced with 0.060” aluminum securely attached to the door. All other interior trim panels, except the dashboard, may be removed. Other than to provide for the installation of required safety equipment or other authorized
modifications, no other driver/passenger compartment alterations or gutting are permitted.

I have read the rule above over and over again I get no answer from what I am reading. Are we allowed to take the window and the window regulator out of the doors? This might be a dumb question but I need to know for prepping my car. My educated guess is that the window should be removed for safety but regulators I do not have the slightest clue. Also do you have to put 0.060" aluminum panels on the doors after you remove the factory door panels? Thanks in advance.
 
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2008 GCR
pg 97
9.4.D.
D. SIDE PROTECTION
Two side tubes connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings are mandatory. NASCAR-style side protection or one bar bisecting another to form an “X” is permitted. Door side tubes may extend into the door. In American Sedan, Improved Touring, Showroom
Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring the door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The stock side impact beam and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified unless specifically authorized in the category rules.
 
If it is a new car you can gut the door only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The aluminum panel applies if you do not gut the door, but want to remove the oem door panels. I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
 
Wow I guess I missed reading that page thanks for the quick replies. OK I am now confused. I cannot gut the door unless I have bars that extend into the door?:shrug:
 
erlrich said:
If it is a new car you can gut the door only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The aluminum panel applies if you do not gut the door, but want to remove the oem door panels. I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
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Ok thanks a million!
 
Here's an example of leagal door gutting.................

100_0995.jpg


100_0994.jpg
 
erlrich said:
I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
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My car is built that way.

P1000302.JPG
 
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I think the intent of the aluminum panel rule is that if your door isn't gutted, there will still be glass in the door (when the window's rolled down for racing). If the inner door liner is removed, there are likely openings that could allow the glass to get to the driver in case of impact. This should help keep it a little more under control.

Let's not get into the topic of the rest of the glass in the car... ;)
 
spnkzss said:
2008 GCR
pg 97
9.4.D.
D. SIDE PROTECTION
Two side tubes connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings are mandatory. NASCAR-style side protection or one bar bisecting another to form an “X” is permitted. Door side tubes may extend into the door. In American Sedan, Improved Touring, Showroom
Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring the door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The stock side impact beam and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified unless specifically authorized in the category rules.
Click to expand...

I just looked at your build pictures and they was very educational. I use to hate the winter months but now I know why they exist. Time to build my car with some confidence!
 
I preferred to keep the windows in so ran the door bar right up to the door's inner structural panel. I cut the OEM door card, and added the alum below the area where the bar hits.

Not quite the question, but another option.

DSC_0667.JPG
 
JimLill said:
I preferred to keep the windows in so ran the door bar right up to the door's inner structural panel. I cut the OEM door card, and added the alum below the area where the bar hits.

Not quite the question, but another option.

DSC_0667.JPG
Click to expand...

Just when I was going to ask another question about the location for the windshield cross tube your picture answered it for me.
 
Another option to ponder.......... My dash-bar is at the middle door-bar & behind/in the dash
 

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Yes, whenever possible, the cross car tube should allow sufficient knee room, especially in a crash. Mine is under the das on my RX-7. They are often referred to as "knee breakers"....
 
i had a broken windshield a couple of years ago and used that opportunity to add a bar above the dash.

the local glass installer was great. pulled windshield one week and installed replacement the next.
 
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