m glassburner
New member
This year while I was at heartland park @85 degrees outside,the temperature difference between a white roof and a black one was 9 degrees ..imho that's a lot !! :119:
Best way to paint interior?
- Thread starter Jiveslug
- Start date
Since my car is white, it was pretty easy. But the interior used to be blue, so I almost got artsy. I tried Krylon spray in white to disappointing results. I used gloss white, but it came out with a rough texture and took forever to remove from the interior of all the glass. Came back with Rustoleum gloss white enamel. It looked great, but now (after 5 years) it needs redoing.
I intend to go back with the same thing, except that this time I'm masking and spraying trunk paint on the high traffic areas...foot wells, etc. I've seen a car with that done everywhere. It looked clean, but the paint is heavy and time consuming to apply.
The white is quite a bit cooler, too. In an inclosed car in the south, that's a big plus.
I intend to go back with the same thing, except that this time I'm masking and spraying trunk paint on the high traffic areas...foot wells, etc. I've seen a car with that done everywhere. It looked clean, but the paint is heavy and time consuming to apply.
The white is quite a bit cooler, too. In an inclosed car in the south, that's a big plus.
Originally posted by charrbq@Nov 21 2005, 08:04 PM
Since my car is white, it was pretty easy. But the interior used to be blue, so I almost got artsy. I tried Krylon spray in white to disappointing results. I used gloss white, but it came out with a rough texture and took forever to remove from the interior of all the glass. Came back with Rustoleum gloss white enamel. It looked great, but now (after 5 years) it needs redoing.
I intend to go back with the same thing, except that this time I'm masking and spraying trunk paint on the high traffic areas...foot wells, etc. I've seen a car with that done everywhere. It looked clean, but the paint is heavy and time consuming to apply.
The white is quite a bit cooler, too. In an inclosed car in the south, that's a big plus.
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This may sound crazy, but we have been redoing cars and trucks in our boby shop and have found a wonderful paint for the interior and rockers to use as a base to prevent chipping. We've been scuffing the old paint, spraying it with truck bed liner, scuffing again (with emery cloth) and spraying it to match the vehicle or a good corresponding color. Using white will help with your heat problem. The truck bed liner covers well and gives you a no slip surface, especially around the footwells in the race car and resists chipping which leads to rust (especially when you race in the rain. Hope this idea helps. BW, comes in spray cans and is not really all that time consuming.
Actually, it's not that heavy if you spray thin coats (2) and then cover with your favorite color and I would suggest going to the auto parts store and getting a color in the spray bomb section specifically for cars. It's more durable. And you also have the option of just spraying the foot areas with the truck bed liner, not the entire interior. Just creates a less slippery area for you if you have to bail out quickly (which you should, hopefully, never have to do.)
Again, enjoy...and as was said earlier, it's all in the prep.
Again, enjoy...and as was said earlier, it's all in the prep.
gran racing
Super Moderator
Hmmm. Maybe a few coats in the trunk would be a good idea to get the weight in the rear?
A question that has been looming for me is how to paint the underside of the roof? I have a gravity feed HVLP gun and I've been wondering how I was going to do this. I've thought about making a fixture that tilts the cup forward to keep paint flowing with the gun pointed up, but then when I'm through with the roof I'll have to paint the foor.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Hmmm.... Interesting about the truck liner for the high-traffic areas. I may have to try that. As far as the paint itself, I DO have to worry about heat since I have several races out here in the desert, so I think black is going to be out. Gray sounds like it might be the best option... What about orange to match the exterior of the car? The only problem would be finding an orange color that is readily available for touch ups.
Anyway, thanks for the help guys. Bill, I appreciate your understanding of my asthetic needs.
Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it. Hehe.
Anyway, thanks for the help guys. Bill, I appreciate your understanding of my asthetic needs.
Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it. Hehe.dave parker
New member
That is the Rustoleum "Hard Hat" Light Machine Gray that was referenced in the first reply to the question.
cheers
"dangerous" dave parker
bldn10
New member
"Bill, I appreciate your understanding of my asthetic needs. Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it."
Even more important IMO is looking good if you are NOT going fast!
I have always had good looking cars and one reason is that I pick a color scheme in which all colors go together; I don't even put decals on my car unless they coordinate. I would introduce a silver into your orange and black scheme as a third color, perhaps only in the graphics (numbers, class letters, stripes, etc.). That would look great w/ the orange and black and then you would have a precedent for a silver interior. Then use the orange and black as accents in the interior and you will be stylin' big time. Select the colors from those available in spray cans of touch-up paint and then have your paint mixed in those colors.
Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it."Even more important IMO is looking good if you are NOT going fast!
I have always had good looking cars and one reason is that I pick a color scheme in which all colors go together; I don't even put decals on my car unless they coordinate. I would introduce a silver into your orange and black scheme as a third color, perhaps only in the graphics (numbers, class letters, stripes, etc.). That would look great w/ the orange and black and then you would have a precedent for a silver interior. Then use the orange and black as accents in the interior and you will be stylin' big time. Select the colors from those available in spray cans of touch-up paint and then have your paint mixed in those colors.
I don't know if you have a Sanel's Auto Parts in your area, but here in NH you can order an aerosol can of your paint color when you buy your paint for the car. It takes about a pint of the paint to make the aerosol. It's great for those quick toughups between bumps and bruises. Also, you can paint your regular color over the truck bed liner after scuffing it with emery. Duplicolor truck bed liner is lighter than plastikote is as it does not have as much of the plastic plymers in it.
Good luck guys.
uh guys... that bedliner material is FLAMMABLE!!
Professionally applied bedliner stuff will withstand about 250-300 before it delaminates,not sure of the melting point. The stuff-in-a-can is probably similar if a little less heat tolerant. The SIAC is, most probabaly, a solvent based polyurethane.
And it is heavy... the SIAC is probably 70% solids at probably probably 10-13 gal/lb wet. Figure a good gallon on the car, less offers little more protection than paint. If you need the scuff resistance, try some of that SEM or Dupont Chip guard (spray bomb), you can get both under and over the paint.
BTW, if you are sold on the bedliner route, use a urethane based paint (Dupont Nason) to tint it.. Or, I can get a application-designed topcoat for you. (water-based).
Eh_Tony!!!
IMHO, leave the bedliner stuff for the enclosed trailer floor, works great there!!!
Professionally applied bedliner stuff will withstand about 250-300 before it delaminates,not sure of the melting point. The stuff-in-a-can is probably similar if a little less heat tolerant. The SIAC is, most probabaly, a solvent based polyurethane.
And it is heavy... the SIAC is probably 70% solids at probably probably 10-13 gal/lb wet. Figure a good gallon on the car, less offers little more protection than paint. If you need the scuff resistance, try some of that SEM or Dupont Chip guard (spray bomb), you can get both under and over the paint.
BTW, if you are sold on the bedliner route, use a urethane based paint (Dupont Nason) to tint it.. Or, I can get a application-designed topcoat for you. (water-based).
Eh_Tony!!!
IMHO, leave the bedliner stuff for the enclosed trailer floor, works great there!!!
Thank you. You just prompted me to get the specs on all the paints we use for auto body work. My husband has done it for years and I handle the books and am learning quickly the do's and don't's of the business.
Interesting about that. We have put hot exhaust parts that fell off a 4x4 into the back of our truck with no problems. I thank you for that info.
quote=bullydog,Nov 29 2005, 06:45 PM]
Figure a good gallon on the car, less offers little more protection than paint. !![/quote]
To do just the footwells would take less than a spray can of the bedliner. Maybe 1/4 of a can. In our shop, we use it for the rockers and use less than 2 cans (2 pints) and then use the acrylic enamel over it in the matching or contrasting color the customer wants. It works great. You don't need to use gallons. Too much is overkill.
quote=bullydog,Nov 29 2005, 06:45 PM]
IMHO, leave the bedliner stuff for the enclosed trailer floor, works great there!!!
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!![/quote]Yes, it would be perfect in the trailer, you are right. For a matter of fact, we are going to try it on our wheelchair ramp into our house as that gets terribly slippery in the rain. We'll let you know how it works. Since we already have the stuff, why not try it?
The bed liner seems like it would be about the same weight and consistancy as the stuff I took off the floor to begin with. It took weeks, cold weather, hammer, chisel, scrapers, carb cleaners, toluene, acetone, IPA, ventilation, rubber gloves, respirator, chiropractor services, and a partridge in a pear tree to remove. I think I'll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint. It won't be as heavy, will look good, and improve the grip of my racing slippers on the floor.