build new 240?

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chris plucker

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I race an old ITB car and am tired of the old car stuff, break all the time, can;t find parts etc. etc. I am thinking of building a ITA 240 wanted some advice..

1) all 89-90 240's that I find are hatchbacks
are the hatchbacks that much heavier? they sure look better.

2) How reliable are the cars? I am really tied of pulling motors and transmissions all the time.

3) DO most people use the hotshot header?

4) swaybars? do most use suspension techniques from ground control?

5) I have roughed out a budget of approx $10,000 to build, is that reasonable?

6) it seems most use the Jim wolf ECU do you use any aftermarket ign?

I am sure I will think of a few more

Thanks
Chris Plucker
 
Gonna get rid of the Volvo, huh?

From what I've heard, get a notchback or whatever they're called. They weigh a bunch less than the hatchback.

"1) all 89-90 240's that I find are hatchbacks
are the hatchbacks that much heavier? they sure look better."

------------------
Bob Pinkowski
Atlanta Region SCCA
OPM Motorsports
ITS Honda Prelude
 
Chris, I have one customer with a hatch back model and it is a little heavy...But it is also very reliable. The key to a reliable 240 is don't get it hot and don't over rev it.

As to the suspension.. The factory heavy bars are ok I have found the suspension tech bars to heavy if the car has proper springs..

The item you want to have spares of are the front hubs as they tend to get worn out on the early cars. I have seen some of these cars with 3 years on the engines and still running very stong.

You are a little low budget wise on a front runner but you should have a very nice car for that kind of money.

Good luck!
 
Chris - I'm still in the process of building my 240, so I'm certainly not the expert here, but between the work and the reseach I've already done I think I can answer a few of your questions. Hopefully some of the guys already racing these cars will chime in with more.

Everything I've read says that the engines in these cars are very reliable, unless (as Joe pointed out) you let them get hot or over-rev them. The one weak link in the engine seems to be the rods - if you have a really well built eingine (as in Rebello or Sunbelt) you might consider replacing them at the end of each season.

The hotshot and S&S are generally considered two of the best off-the-shelf headers for these cars. In fact, there are only 2 or 3 companies I know of that make headers for the early 240's, so your chioces are pretty limited.

As far as ignition, my understanding is that for the compression and mods we're allowed in ITA there is really little advantage to an aftermarket unit (and yes, the JWT ECU is the way to go).

I agree with Joe, a $10K budget probably won't put you in the winner's circle (unless the Hondas stay home), but you should have more cars behind you than in front. My budget is already pushing $14K, but I've included a few "wish list" items, like spherical bearings and a radio system.

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Earl
ITA 240SX in process

[This message has been edited by erlrich (edited April 24, 2003).]
 
Chris.
email me offlist..I could fill up 10 pages with info for you .I will gladly share costs, mistakes not to make, sources for parts, recommendations, etc....

Jim Cohen
[email protected]


Joe,
How many RPM do you consider to be just enough?//..just curious...

Jim

[This message has been edited by ITA240 (edited April 21, 2003).]
 
Jim, They seam to quit making power at about 6500 to 6600 rpm. So with the over run about 6900...These things are tractors and should be geared as such...Now I also know the stock rods are safe to 7100 constant use and break at 7400....Our EP motors all have carrillo's in them because of the added compression and 7200 rpm constant use. My 4 valve motor uses stock rods at 12 to 1 and I run it to 7000 constant....So that's what I can tell you. Last year 10 races 7000 all the time and the bottom end looks like the day I built it. ARP rod bolts are a must on the stock rod also. Oh the only thing I think we have all forgotten is timing chain...constant inspection of the gear.
 
Bob

The volvo is not for sale... yet, but I sure tire of the old car sometimes. I want to move up at least 20 yrs in automotive technology

Chris Plucker
 
Another question..

Does everybody run the stock tank or do you run fuel cells? Does it have one of those under the passenger seat tanks?

Thanks
Chris
 
Originally posted by chris plucker:
Another question..

Does everybody run the stock tank or do you run fuel cells? Does it have one of those under the passenger seat tanks?

Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...

My '97 runs the stock tank, which is indeed under the rear seat area, and stradles the rear diff. One thing we've noticed is that there may be a fuel pickup problem when these tanks are run low, as they are a true saddle tank, with the fuel pump/pickup in the right side (at least on the '95-'98s...) When the tank gets low, the fuel can slosh over to the left in right turns, potentially uncovering the pickup. If anyone out there has a solution to this problem, feel free to speak up
wink.gif
...


------------------
Darin E. Jordan
SCCA #273080, OR/NW Regions
Auburn, WA
ITS '97 240SX
240_OR_041203_thumb.jpg
 
Our ITA car ('89-90) seems like it will run until the tank is bone dry, without starving for fuel.
I had to swap the tank once and took a peek inside. It seems to have a pretty good surge tank where the fuel pump/pickup is. However, Bob Stretch had his surge tank's spot weld(s) break during a race; don't remember if there was any more damage.
Best thing is to replace the pump, and inspect the welds while you're in there.
Michael
 
Chris,
On the S13's, the stock tank should be fine. Mine wont starve until it gets pretty low, maybe only 1.5 to two gallons left, and then it is only right handers that starve it (of course)

Jim
 
Originally posted by ITA240:
Chris,
On the S13's, the stock tank should be fine. Mine wont starve until it gets pretty low, maybe only 1.5 to two gallons left, and then it is only right handers that starve it (of course)
Jim
Click to expand...

Can you guys tell me how similiar the early tanks are to the newer ones? I'd be curious as to how your S13 experiences translate to the S14 models?? Other than to install a new fuel-pump with the tank in the car, I haven't had a chance to really look at one of these tanks closely to see how it is configured. If someone has a diagram from an early model that they could post, that would be very helpful...

Thanks,




------------------
Darin E. Jordan
SCCA #273080, OR/NW Regions
Auburn, WA
ITS '97 240SX
240_OR_041203_thumb.jpg
 
Chris, if you are still thinking of building a 240sx you might want to investegate buying one of the two that are forsale up our way. contacts: Pete Smith(518-587-9755) or Dave Canavan(518-792-4986) both are good cars in the 12k range. dave
 
Chris, The hatchbacks are around a 100lbs+ heavier. This is a car that is very reliable once you go through the whole car and rebuild or prep everything. Some of the big costs are the rear suspension spherical bearing set up (I did my own, and I think I am I am the only one that didn't have Westech do it). The engine, assuming someone like Sunbelt builds, tunes and dynos the motor. And as everyone has stated keeping them cool. That means custom radiator, and a good oil cooling system. The cars rarely make weight, so keeping your cage minimal, but safe, helps with the bloated weight. They are good cars, can be winners, but other than Bob Stretch, no one has completely dominated in this car. That makes for good racing! Hope this helps.

Tristan Smith
Buffalos Southwest Cafe
ITA Nissan 240sx #56
 
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