Golf III ITB

I've plumbed in an oil cooler, removing the old water-cooled one. The stub ends of the radiator hoses feeding the stock cooler need to be plugged as I could not find a hose without these. I got lucky and found an aftermarket hose that was not pre-molded, but made up of sections of hose and plastic tees. A couple of 5/8" heater block-off caps from Pep Boys took care of the stubs.

Next time I'll remember to order the shorter threaded pipe, for the much thinner sandwich plate, ahead of time.

Have Fun,

Dave Z
 
Woo-hoo!

Just when I had given up, Charlotte-area VW gearbox guy Geoff Zimmer found the correct 4th gear for my 'box and it's ready to pick up - 3.94 FD, KAAZ and all.

K
 
Total trick photography! How did they have that car actually running without tripping the Check Engine Light? Wait 'til VW finds out about this, they'll have to fix it for free. Just wondering, are the pedal covers IT legal? How many horsepower do the "R" badges add? Will I have to run a restrictor plate with tha exhaust? Ha. Slow day today. Joe
 
Originally posted by Dave Zaslow:
I've plumbed in an oil cooler, removing the old water-cooled one. The stub ends of the radiator hoses feeding the stock cooler need to be plugged as I could not find a hose without these. I got lucky and found an aftermarket hose that was not pre-molded, but made up of sections of hose and plastic tees. A couple of 5/8" heater block-off caps from Pep Boys took care of the stubs.

Next time I'll remember to order the shorter threaded pipe, for the much thinner sandwich plate, ahead of time.

Have Fun,

Dave Z
Click to expand...

s-shaped hose
026 121 053G - $16.41
short hose
068 121 063M - $11.30
oil filter stud for aftermarket cooler
059 115 721 - $1.32
those are the correct hoses to delete the factory heat exchanger. not too terribly expensive either. one less failure point to be had..


[This message has been edited by psykokid (edited March 22, 2005).]
 
Originally posted by Knestis:
That's great info - would you be interested in letting me add it to the tech notes page on my site?

http://it2.evaluand.com/gti/tech.php

If so, let me know how you want the credit to read.


K
Click to expand...

Go ahead and add it to your site.. no need for credit.

Just a few tid bits of info i collected on all the parts i needed to make my daily corrado a lil less portly and a lil more efficient.

Always glad to help when i can
smile.gif
 
Originally posted by psykokid:
s-shaped hose
026 121 053G - $16.41
short hose
068 121 063M - $11.30
oil filter stud for aftermarket cooler
059 115 721 - $1.32
those are the correct hoses to delete the factory heat exchanger. not too terribly expensive either. one less failure point to be had..


[This message has been edited by psykokid (edited March 22, 2005).]
Click to expand...
I just pulled these part numbers and I don't think they will work for the ABA engine. The top hose on the ABA goes to the rear of the head not to the middle of the head like on your Coprrado with the PG engine. The little hose could work if you back dated to the mkII metal pipe that goes to the heater.

I will spend some time with ETKA to see if I can find it.



------------------
Doug Hillmann
 
Small thing learned this week.....

The stock power wiring has one 2 gauge (black)and two 8 gauge (red & red/white)wires at the positive battery terminal. The black goes to a large stud on the starter and the reds go off to the fusebox.

In wiring the battery disconnect one needs to run new 2 gauge to the switch amd thence back to the starter stud. The reds then also need to be transferred to that stud. To get them there, their routing needs to be changed.

Remove the battery and unsrew the two 10mm nuts holding the red wires to the battery terminal. Undo the 10mm bolts to remove the battery support. Unscrew the captive allen bolt holding the power steering reservoir to the battery support. Now you can take the plate out of the car and see the wiring running underneath it. Free the bundle from the plastic clips and unwrap the cloth tape to free the reds from the bundle they are in. You will have to go all the way back to where they used to disappear under the tray. The new route uses the same path as the one for the engine ground. The lugs on the reds will have to be reamed out slightly to fit over the starter lug. Re-wrap to protect the wires, then assembly is the reverse of removal.

Special bonus feature! If you are putting the disconnect inside the car you need to run through the firewall. Looking from the engine compartment to where the various wiring bundles go through, you may see a plugged hole. Remove the plug and you have a 7/8" hole through; big enough for the dual 2 gauge and the smaller wires to kill the 12v side of the coil.

Have Fun,

Dave Z
 
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