hey everyone im new just got a quick ??

paulydee said:
The Kosei K1's are very light for the price, but I don't think they are available anymore. Especially in the correct offset. As far as tires go the 225/45/15 size is the most ideal, but going to a 225/50/15 is also usable.
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oh they dont make um any more?? darn so i would have to find them used? whats the best offset?? ididnt know ra1's cam 225/45 that would be best....less sidewall flex

JLawton said:
Enkie's (sp?) They're 9 1/2 lbs and only $190 each if I remember right.

See Phil www.philstireservice.com He's one of us! :023:
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9.5lbs? lol ok i was just going but some add i think i saw in grassroots.. 190 is a tall order but worth it i think right??? how much do kosei k1 go for now adays?
 
oh mevermind on the enkeis according to phils site they dont come in my lug pattern.,.. well atleast not the 15's
 
the kosi k-1 (15x7) are not available anymore .(damn it) i'm always looking for wheels that will work for us. 5x114.7 or 5x4.5 with 25mm (4.75") or 30mm (5") offset with 1/4 spacer works well. this wheels are getting hard to find. good luck ! ralph
 
I use 94-98 Mustang v6 wheels, they are 15x7, fairly light and very strong, 24mm offstet that is perfect without spacers. The wheels can be obtained for less than $100/set. Use the money that would waste on expensive wheels on the very best water and oil cooling system you can afford or a 4.88 or 5.13 rear gear setup.

matt
 
racingralph said:
the kosi k-1 (15x7) are not available anymore .(damn it) i'm always looking for wheels that will work for us. 5x114.7 or 5x4.5 with 25mm (4.75") or 30mm (5") offset with 1/4 spacer works well. this wheels are getting hard to find. good luck ! ralph
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ive been looking with no luck lol :(

xr4racer said:
I use 94-98 Mustang v6 wheels, they are 15x7, fairly light and very strong, 24mm offstet that is perfect without spacers. The wheels can be obtained for less than $100/set. Use the money that would waste on expensive wheels on the very best water and oil cooling system you can afford or a 4.88 or 5.13 rear gear setup.

matt
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do u have a picture of this rims so i can see what they look like please....and from what i hear 4.88 and 5.13 r&p are hard to find arent they?? becuz they are custom made only
 
I do not have any pictures, they are 3 spoke style that is great for brake cooling. Look on ebay for 94-98 Mustang V6 wheels, you should be able to see some pictures. The rear gears are semi hard to find and very expensive when you do. That is why I said to save the money on wheels and spend it on stuff that makes the car competitive. I do not know what tracks you will be running at but the single best improvement will probably be a 4.88 or 5.13 LSD.

matt
 
The team dynamic wheels are as light as the Kosi and still available. Pro race is strong and about 13 pounds. I keep the 4.88 and 5.12 in stock so they are not hard to find anymore. This seems to be a common misconception so I will make a seperate post.
 
For removing the tar, I got some compressed air from a computer store and shot it out at the tar with the can upside-down.

This makes a freezing gas come out and it quickly freezes the tar so you can chip it off. This is better than the dry-ice, which I also tried. The dry-ice is fine, but it's hard to position it on all the slants and corners and such. With the compressed air, you can shoot it exactly where you want it.

Also cans of compressed air are a little easier to get.
 
seckerich said:
The team dynamic wheels are as light as the Kosi and still available. Pro race is strong and about 13 pounds. I keep the 4.88 and 5.12 in stock so they are not hard to find anymore. This seems to be a common misconception so I will make a seperate post.
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how much do the ring and pinions go for?? i will be mostly running willow springs and button willow and might go up to thunder raceway every once in a while...which would be better 4.88 or 5.12

Scooter said:
For removing the tar, I got some compressed air from a computer store and shot it out at the tar with the can upside-down.

This makes a freezing gas come out and it quickly freezes the tar so you can chip it off. This is better than the dry-ice, which I also tried. The dry-ice is fine, but it's hard to position it on all the slants and corners and such. With the compressed air, you can shoot it exactly where you want it.

Also cans of compressed air are a little easier to get.
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can this be picked up at like staples and what not??? is it a certain type?? i will probably use this method for the odd angles and dry ice for the easy ones...

by the way imma start my project real soon and start up a thread i finally found a shell that was orignally manuel unlike mine
 
They have discontinued the Pro Race 1 and only have the Pro Race 1.2 now. You need a 15 x 7, 5/4.5 in a +35 offset. They used to have a +30 but I think that was only on the 1 and not the 1.2. They run about $155 each or so retail. Most wheel places should be able to order them in a weeks time, otherwise they may have to come from overseas and that takes a month or two. I ordered mine from Discount Tire, know someone who gets me a deal.
 
mbuskuhl said:
They have discontinued the Pro Race 1 and only have the Pro Race 1.2 now. You need a 15 x 7, 5/4.5 in a +35 offset. They used to have a +30 but I think that was only on the 1 and not the 1.2. They run about $155 each or so retail. Most wheel places should be able to order them in a weeks time, otherwise they may have to come from overseas and that takes a month or two. I ordered mine from Discount Tire, know someone who gets me a deal.
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do u guys normally run spacers on wheels with that off set?? cuz the offset seems to little for me then again i have a zero offset in the rear and the front is about 13 so i might just not be use to the way it looks lol

downsized_0916081238a.jpg
 
ismaelae86 said:
do u guys normally run spacers on wheels with that off set?? cuz the offset seems to little for me then again i have a zero offset in the rear and the front is about 13 so i might just not be use to the way it looks lol
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I think you'll find it beneficial to read the GCR again as some have suggested. The wheel can not protrude outside the fender (specfic verbiage in GCR). You also have to run stock fenders. With a zero offset you are way outside the fender. I run a +35 with a 1/2" spacer (ARP long studs) and 225/45/15 R6. This works to just clear the front spring seat yet keep the tire in compliance with the GCR as far as IT rules are concerned. Your results may vary.
 
i was just asking if u guys used some sort of spacer..but i know the wheels cant stick out and i have stock fenders...i just dont know how far in 30 offset is since im use to my low offset wheels...good thing is i already got long arp studs in the front :) i just need to get some for the rear :(
 
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