Ita 92 civic hatchback dx ?

Sounds like you've got a good starting point for the setup. You might want to pick the brains of some of the Integra (DC2) guys. I know they run considerably stiffer all the way around.

How much air are you getting under the rear tire? Is the inside rear locking up under braking all the time or is it just when you're "carrying" it in the air thru the turns?

Out of curiousity, any idea on the specs for the ASR piece (diameter, wall thickness, arm length)? I'm running a custom Speedway rear bar currently and wondered how the two compare.

Christian
 
Xian said:
Sounds like you've got a good starting point for the setup. You might want to pick the brains of some of the Integra (DC2) guys. I know they run considerably stiffer all the way around.

How much air are you getting under the rear tire? Is the inside rear locking up under braking all the time or is it just when you're "carrying" it in the air thru the turns?

Out of curiousity, any idea on the specs for the ASR piece (diameter, wall thickness, arm length)? I'm running a custom Speedway rear bar currently and wondered how the two compare.

Christian
Click to expand...

32mm OD, 3mm wall, arm is adjustable to between 6 or 7 inches and 3 or 4 inches. The bar is only slightly shorter than the distance between the two rear lower control arm mounts.

I am most likely going to move up to 600/800 or 700/900 in the future.

I was told the rear could be locking up because of the drum brakes needing adjustment, but i know only the basics about how a drum brake works so i'll just have to trust them on this one.
 
Gotcha. FWIW, yours converts to ~1.25" diameter, .120 wall bar offered by speedway. In their range that's a pretty "middle of the road" bar so if you decide to go softer or harder, you may have some options thru them. I'm running the same size bar but with a bit more adjustment options on the arm length.

I ran my CRX at 500/700 and have to say that my Civic at 700/1000 is actually smoother over bumps... IMO, the higher rates pay dividends when you start hopping curbs as the suspension bottoms out less.

Both my CRX and Civic were/are drum cars. Are you locking them up under straight line braking at all? Or is the issue only apparent when one of the rears has been in the air? If it's the latter, I wouldn't worry about it... the small puff of smoke at touchdown shouldn't hurt anything at all. Its unusual to have rear drums adjusted tightly enough that you'd have premature rear lockup... this is b/c with them adjusted "out" too far, you'll have trouble getting the drum back over them. More often, I'd find that I needed to ratchet up a click or two on the parking brake to start pre-loading them as they got hot and wore as the race went on... what rear shoes are on the car? Stock type?
 
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Xian said:
Gotcha. FWIW, yours converts to ~1.25" diameter, .120 wall bar offered by speedway. In their range that's a pretty "middle of the road" bar so if you decide to go softer or harder, you may have some options thru them. I'm running the same size bar but with a bit more adjustment options on the arm length.

I ran my CRX at 500/700 and have to say that my Civic at 700/1000 is actually smoother over bumps... IMO, the higher rates pay dividends when you start hopping curbs as the suspension bottoms out less.

Both my CRX and Civic were/are drum cars. Are you locking them up under straight line braking at all? Or is the issue only apparent when one of the rears has been in the air? If it's the latter, I wouldn't worry about it... the small puff of smoke at touchdown shouldn't hurt anything at all. Its unusual to have rear drums adjusted tightly enough that you'd have premature rear lockup... this is b/c with them adjusted "out" too far, you'll have trouble getting the drum back over them. More often, I'd find that I needed to ratchet up a click or two on the parking brake to start pre-loading them as they got hot and wore as the race went on... what rear shoes are on the car? Stock type?
Click to expand...

The rear shoes are 913's from carbotech. I don't think they were locking up when i was braking straight. So maybe it was just that I unloaded that tire enough that it would lock. I was lifting the inside rear in a number of turns. I still have a lot of work to do before the car is setup anyway so I am not going to worry about it. yet. Also they were brand new and did not have a brake in period yet. Thanks for the help though.
 
We run stock pads on the back of the Golf and still get lock-up on the inside trail-braking into a corner. Anything with any initial bite is going to be a problem in that respect. (EDIT - on a FWD car)

K
 
What Kirk said. If you're having the rears lockup prematurely (i.e. before they "lift off" the ground on corner entry), you might want to try stock or stock equivalent pads to reduce braking torque back there.
 
During my SCCA School I locked up the rear tires ALOT, while still going straight, at turn 1 at Roebling. I scaried the hell out of my friends (and probably the students directly behind me) a number of times because of the HUGE amount of smoke the RA-1s were throwing up. I ended up replaceing the 913's from carbotech with Advance auto parts "good" shoes. That alleaviated the lock up problem in the rear. I'll just have to keep an eye on them and keep an extra set of shoes around just incase.
 
Our '92 H/B has completed its transition into an ITB DX. Drivetrain is built and dyno'd. On a brand new motor, it did ~4-5whp less than the typical "average hp/lb" ratio of ITB. I'm hoping that after I get it out and run a weekend on it, it'll break in some more and that power number will come up a little bit. As it is, you're not winning an ARRC in it. I may take it out, shake it down, and break it in at Mid Ohio during the Friday test day before the May 22-23rd National. If I do, we'll see how it's breaking in and how it's doing.
 
if you were 4-5 shy that means you were at

2345lb/17(lb/hp)-5hp * 0.85(to convert to from hp to whp)

~113whp?
 
quadzjr said:
if you were 4-5 shy that means you were at

2345lb/17(lb/hp)-5hp * 0.85(to convert to from hp to whp)

~113whp?
Click to expand...
:023:

113.3whp to be exact. Torque was real close to the same number. I'd love to just make the "average" of ~117-118whp, as you know it'll be one of the better handling and braking cars out there. It'll come up a little as it gets broken in, but we'll have to wait and see how much.
 
out of curiosity, Kevin is this an all out build or "standard bolt-ons with a well done engine rebuild,chipped P06, etc?"

what ECU, header, etc... got you there? I'm happy to hear that the car is close to the target, especially given that it was weighted with larger than the standard expected gain (16v and all that).:happy204:

keep it up!
 
Chip42 said:
out of curiosity, Kevin is this an all out build or "standard bolt-ons with a well done engine rebuild,chipped P06, etc?"

what ECU, header, etc... got you there? I'm happy to hear that the car is close to the target, especially given that it was weighted with larger than the standard expected gain (16v and all that).:happy204:

keep it up!
Click to expand...
It's pretty much everything I know how to do. I actually can't think of anything this car doesn't have versus my ITA Integra. Full Hondata S300 tune, AN-R header, full IT engine. Like I said, I'm planning on taking it out next Friday evening at Mid Ohio to shake it down and give it a break in. Should get a good feel for it then, and after that I'll hit the dyno again to see if I can improve on the numbers. Hopefully it comes up a couple more.
 
Kevin, hopefully I will see you out there. Hoping to get the ITR RSX out for a shakedown Friday night. Was gonna do the race but no other ITR cars are registered. At least I can get some laps on it prior to IT Fest..
 
R2 Racing said:
Like I said, I'm planning on taking it out next Friday evening at Mid Ohio to shake it down and give it a break in. Should get a good feel for it then, and after that I'll hit the dyno again to see if I can improve on the numbers. Hopefully it comes up a couple more.
Click to expand...
Just to give a little update on this, I never did end up taking the car out that evening, as I needed the sessions to do some testing in my FP Integra instead. My Dad did end up driving it though, but just drove around at ~80% and turning good ITC times. He said he liked the way it fealt, handled and seemed to pull well. This coming weekend he will be racing it at Mid Ohio for the first time during The IT Festival. If anyone cares to know, we ended up needing to bolt in 135lbs of ballast in order to make weight with my 255lb Dad in the car. Yeah, that's a lot. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get the car back to the dyno to see if the power numbers have come up, but the leakdown and compression numbers did (of course) improve after getting to run a couple sessions. We'll run it again this weekend to break it in some more, and then it'll get another dyno treatment. After that, I personally may run it at the September Mid Ohio double regional just to try it out.
 
Sounds like you built a pretty stout car Kevin. I'm just wandering for the ITA Teg, or the civic, how much weight you had to put in the car. With my ITA 89 Civic Si, I do not need any weight with all fluids, me at 200lbs, and 1/3 of a tank of gas(I think) my fuel gauge is a little iffy, so I think with maybe 3/8 of a tank I can be exactly 2250#. I'm just wandering if this is typical, or the previous owner put some weight somewhere other than the passenger compartement.

Thanks,
Steven
 
ITA '92 Integra RS is 2595lbs, and with me in it at 270lbs, it needs ~80lbs of ballast.

ITB '92 Civic DX is 2345lbs, and with my Dad in it at 255lbs, it needs ~135lbs of ballast.

Both of those make the car literally cough on fuel when it gets to minimum weight.
 
If it helps...

ITA '92 Civic Si is 2350 (45 lbs over min weight) with me in it at 190 lbs, 7 gallons of gas and 25 lbs of ballast.
 
mossaidis said:
If it helps...

ITA '92 Civic Si is 2350 (45 lbs over min weight) with me in it at 190 lbs, 7 gallons of gas and 25 lbs of ballast.
Click to expand...

Yeah that helps, I think adding the ballast makes the difference. Vs what I'm doing and trying to use fuel as ballast.

Thanks,
Steven
 
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