Just starting over

Some people prefer one, some the other, but at the end of the day with the low-powered cars we race, it doesn't make much difference. ITC, ITB, or ITA give you way more choices among FWD cars, and most are newer than RWD options, making parts easier to source.

K
 
after many years of this debating I have finally decided for a newbie from outside the SCCA/Racing family buy a car and get out thier... Build the second car!!! To many people start to build a car and never get finished or get on the track. You wont win the first couple years, so you might as well have fun and not worry about the stresses of building your own car. When you decide you want to win, then figure out what you want to build, what class you want to invest in and then build.

I think that the MR2 or ITA RX7 is the best long term investment for what you have laid down as requirements (low cost RWD). Plenty of knowledge and parts, and eventually (who knows when) I think they will end up being moved to ITB and be front runners :) I have no true inside info but my gut says that eventually this will happen, its just a matter of how long we (The ITB guys) will make them resist the move :unsure:

Raymond
 
...its just a matter of how long we (The ITB guys) will make them resist the move :unsure: [/b]
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That shouldn't have ANY bearing on the issue - and the fact that it even gets suggested is irritating. This is precisely the kind of crap the current process is supposed to avoid. Find a workaround for the cage tubing issue and get them moved to B where they belong.

Kirk (aka "an ITB guy")
 
The B guys always get nervous when the subject comes up, LOL. I don't see the 7 going to B anytime soon....it's a tweener by the numbers, and there isn't a consensus on a direction to go regarding the cage issue, the wheels and so on.
 
Find a workaround for the cage tubing issue and get them moved to B where they belong.

Kirk (aka "an ITB guy")
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The answer is easy. Dual classification. Class tweeners in both classes at different weights. My research shows that fully half the Rx7s built (based on a survey of 50 cars) have cages stout enough to be legal at the ITB weight.
I sent in a request at the urging of a couple of CRB members but it never made it past the ITAC.
No Rx7 in Narrc is within 5 seconds of the pole.
 
fwd vs rwd. My personal opinion is that at the lower power levels that we play with in A, B and C fwd has an advantage. You just get a better drive out of the corner, and with the sprint format of most of our events, burning up those busy front tires is not a real issue.

Bringing 'tweener' A cars down to B... I personaly don't know of any ITB driver that has an issue with cars being fairly added to our class. As far as I am concerned class any damn car you like with us. More cars makes for more fun in racing. I have faith in our ITAC and the classing process to get them close enough to right so that we can all race together. However, don't dual classify. A car either fits one performance envelope or the other, and just because no one is building a particular car competitively is not justification to move it down.

We all say to buy first. It really depends on the individual. I built my car, and I am glad I did. However, I did delay my first racing start by YEARS doing so. The engineering and build is as much fun for me as the racing (or at least that is what I thought back then...now I know better :eclipsee_steering: ). For someone that is really interested in the driving, go buy and get on the track.
 
That shouldn't have ANY bearing on the issue - and the fact that it even gets suggested is irritating. This is precisely the kind of crap the current process is supposed to avoid. Find a workaround for the cage tubing issue and get them moved to B where they belong.

Kirk (aka "an ITB guy")
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Sorry to irritate you Kirk... The comment was somewhat sarcastic (but probably realistic looking out 5-10 years). I do think that they are a good investment. They are fun to drive, cheep, reliable and plenty of parts and knowledge around.

Raymond "Sorry again" Blethen
 
The ITB Golf can be bought for 4- 6k,pretty ready to run. the A1, Rabbits are usually cheaper , but not as fast. The build cost is about 9-20k if the right parts are used. Look for a Quaife, posi diff or welded, with a 3.9 gear for 98% of the tracks. Welded is the fastest , the quaife is the easyist to drive.
You can rent mine for$ 800 race weekend and/or test it first, for a 6k sale. We are running it next week at a very fast autocross . We bet 50$on fastest time, three drivers. This car was built 6 yrs ago and has about 10k in parts run thru it , motor 2k, trans2k, quaife, gear, clutch, header $450. etc . It adds up fast.
I have built and supported the Vovlos and MR2. The Vovlo is real fast when not broke. The MR2 has poor brakes and is not faste enough to be fun in ITA, hense the cheap price of those. And they suck to work on, but F-Atlantic ran those engines, with some $ you can go fast , but not legal.
The first race car should have plenty of parts for cheap. Most of the Golf parts , axles, rotors, bearing etc can be bought from any of the parts houses, easy and fast.
The ITB cars are easy on fuel and tires , yet fast enoug to be fun . Most places, the ITB will always have a race. It cost about the same to build any of these cars, other than restoring them first. Add about 8k for old car racing or Porsche stuff. The Vw is by far the cheapest car to race, other than old SSC cars, The Neon is not too bad for the cash. The RX 7 is very good also. carry a spare trans.
Usually , if you build your first race car, you are slow into turn one because you have too much $ and work in it. One year and 15k is about the bill.
The race car is just a tool to build your ego. If you cant crash it emotionally, than you will be very slow.. IMHO. Mike Ogren , FL.
 
RX MAX, I have almost everything you would need to build a 1982 1st gen Mazda RX-7 to run in ITA/IT7. Depending on where you live in Oklahoma there are a bunch of ITA/7 cars that run in Kansas & Missouri.

I had the car shipped to Wisconsin from Oregon & it is 100% rust FREE. Stripped & ready for a roll cage.

I tosted my previous 1st gen RX-7 while racing at Blackhawk Farm in IL.

What's missing list:

A. Roll cage

B. Front sway bar alum arms (speedway engineering)

C. Alum water radiator

D. Earlier 1st gen alum oil cooler

E. Seat belts

F. Fire extingusher

G. third member/pumpkin

What's there:

a. Strong 85,000 mile motor

b. MSD Blaster coils

c. Paul Yaw blueprinted carb

d. ISC racing suspension front I rear with G-Force Tri link

e. ICS header, to a 3 inch over the axle pipe to a DynaFlow muffler at 98/100 db

e. 5 Panasport 9# wheels

f. I'll finish the list if you have interest.

Extras:

1. one hood

2. 4 front fenders

3. 4 doors

4. 1 front valance/grill

5. Starter

6. A couple transmissions

7 4 large rear axles

8. An extra large axle banjo

6. A bunch more & if you have an interest I will complete the list.

I have $1,700 in the chassis as it sits & I'll sell all the NEW stuff at HALF the price I paid. Example 1 Panasport wheel at $190.00 for $95.00 no damage wheel. all the used stuff we'll talk a deal.

Let me know of your interest ;)

David Dewhurst

pm or 1-414-453-0929
 
Thank you guys for all your help, I just bought a ITB Mustang, i appreciate the imput, one of the reason's i wanted to get into this was the people, generally they are the best help and friendly too. I know it will be a long time before I get there but I have ARRIVED!
 
Congratulations.
I think you made a wise choice to buy and go have some fun. You can always spend more money on upgrades and you will. :D

Now go drive :eclipsee_steering:
 
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