At least for the Corrado brakes I have the sliders for the 11" brakes are in the spindle, then the caliper gets bolted on to the sliders. On my old '85 GTI it had those wonky sliders with those plastic inserts that went through the caliper and bolted on to the spindle - sorta different. The swap to get the G60 Corrado (or G60 Passat) on to a G/J requires the whole spindle, and brakes IIRC.
Lower Ball joint extender?
- Thread starter rmicroys
- Start date
At least for the Corrado brakes I have the sliders for the 11" brakes are in the spindle, then the caliper gets bolted on to the sliders. On my old '85 GTI it had those wonky sliders with those plastic inserts that went through the caliper and bolted on to the spindle - sorta different. The swap to get the G60 Corrado (or G60 Passat) on to a G/J requires the whole spindle, and brakes IIRC.
racer14itc
New member
Rob,
If you're going to go through all the trouble, why not use a setup that utilizes a heim joint in the end of the control arm? Walt Puckett makes a nice tubular control arm setup with heim joints at all three pickup points, and a slick ball joint spacer that mounts into the hub carrier.
It's used by quite a few VW prod racers including myself.
MC
Sure, either way that works. lots of options:
1. make a ball joint extender that clamps on to an existing ball joint and goes in to the spindle.
2. use the OEM a-arm, but replace the ball joint assy with a heim joint. Then make a spacer that one bolts on to the heim joint, and then insert in to the spindle.
3. Make a new a-arm, complete with replacable heim joint, then use the same spacer from 2.
Either way, requires somebody to fab something on a lathe/etc... maybe in my next life I'll be able to afford a few metal working machines. Probably a lot easier to make a plate with a heim joint, bolt it to my oem a-arm in place of the OEM ball joint, and just get somebody to make the "slick ball joint spacer". Certainly less complicated than the ball joint extender to make.
Okay... didn't know. most people I see when they swap to 'rado brakes take the spindle too.
Now another question... But what do you do with the pad carriers that are integral to the early A2 spindle???
Then the early A2 bolt holes are M8 where as on the rado, the caliper carriers fasten with M12 bolts... it's really not all that compatible looking from ETKA.
I'm not thinking they're compatible.
Now if you're thinking Mk3 Golf... sure that should be a closer swap. I really don't think that it works on Mk2s...
RSTPerformance
New member
Jeff-
I am not sure I understand... the "A" arm is flat on an Audi just like a VW. Flat meaning if you set it on the floor it is basicaly flat from the 2 A ARM mounting points and the Ball Joint Mounting point. The only ajustment you realy have is setting camber by moving the ball joint in or out of the "A" arm.
Ramond
I am not sure I understand... the "A" arm is flat on an Audi just like a VW. Flat meaning if you set it on the floor it is basicaly flat from the 2 A ARM mounting points and the Ball Joint Mounting point. The only ajustment you realy have is setting camber by moving the ball joint in or out of the "A" arm.
Ramond
Bill Miller
New member
Rob,
I agree w/ Mark on the tubular contorl arms. I've got them on my HP Rabbit. I'm not sure if they came from Walt's shop, or if the p/o just copied the design. The only real caveat I see w/ using a tubular arm over a stock arm (either w/ or w/o a rod end for the ball joint), is this. The stock arms are sandwiched, stamped steel, and tend to bend in the event of a shunt. You can almost look at this like a crumple zone. If you switch to a tubular arm setup, you're not going to get that same energy absorbing characteristic that you will w/ a stock arm. This means it's going to transfer most (all?) of the impact energy to the pickup points. With an A1 VW chassis, this can (and often does) mean the end of the frame horn. I'm not as familiar w/ the A2 chassis, so I don't know if it's got that same design (I need to look at my A2 Bentley again). So, while it's certainly the trick setup, be aware that you may end up doing more significant damage, in the event of a shunt.
Okay... two attachments from ETKA screen captures. One is a Mk2 brake setup - the one with the funky spindle with the little wings for the pads. The next is a Mk3 Golf setup (which is similar to a Corrado) To swap Corrado stuff in to a Mk2 (even the 16V) requires a spindle from the Mk3 or a Corrado/Passat four bolt 11" brake setup.
Remember rabbit spindles are different and don't have these wings either. But we didn't like rabbit spindles. The wheel bearings and hubs were much smaller and prone to failure. The previous owner of the car has some wall trophies from rabbit running gear.
Mk2 Golf/Jetta brakes:
[attachmentid=243]
Mk3 or similar to Corrado/Passat 4bolt 11" setup:
[attachmentid=242]
As I understand it A2 cars came with 3 different size (diameter) 4 lug brake rotors, 9.4", 10.1" and 11".
All A2 Golf's and most A2 Jetta's had 9.4"
Late 2L 16v Jetta's had 10.1" same as the B3 Passat, 16v Scirocco, and I4 A3's.
G60 Corrado's had the 11" brakes
All of the 9.4" A2 cars had wheel bearing housings that included the integrated pad carriers, early ones had 66mm bearings later ones had 72mm. The 10.1" and 11" cars had wheel bearing housings that used bolt on-pad carriers and 72mm bearings. The 16v Scirocco used a weird wheel bearing but it's not an A2 car.
My understanding was there were 2 sizes of ball joint for A2 cars, early (smaller) and late (larger). I had always assumed that it followed the wheel bearing pattern, ie. 72mm wheel bearings = larger ball joints and 62mm = smaller. Is this incorrect?
Are you saying that the Corrado uses larger ball joints than the 10.1" cars? I'm not saying that you're wrong, just trying to get a better understanding of the issue. I've swapped the 10.1" A2, B3 and A3 wheel bearing housings onto A2 cars to use 10.1 and 11" brakes and never ran into a problem as long as I've used the correct pad carriers and calipers. The 11" set-up uses different pad carriers and caliper then the 10.1" set-up but they bolt up to the wheel bearing housings from the 10.1" A2 cars, the B3's and/or the 4 cylinder A3 cars.
Thanks,
Bob
Good info there. From ETKA yesterday I was unable to find a girling brake setup for an A2 G/J - likely because I wasn't specifically looking for the 16V. Upon closer look, you are Correct. Only the 16V would have come with the 10.1" girling setup.
And you're right about the ball joint size too, in the later A2 cars, they all used the 19mm ball joint (88 and on). most of the time, I see people swaping bigger brakes on to 9.4" A2 cars, in which case they need to switch the spindle as well. So the corrado shares the same ball joint as all 88+ mk2s, but not the same spindle with the exception of the 16V cars.
Good info about the wheel bearing sizes.
Thanks for straighten me up.
Be careful with the Girling calipers. Both 10.1 and 11" use a caliper with 54 cast into the body. I assume it's the dia of the piston. They're different, the calipers for the 11" setup allow a wider rotor. I think the calipers/pad carriers from the VR6 cars are a direct fit with the 11" Corrado but I haven't checked this in a few years. The calipers for A2 Golfs will not bolt up to the 10.1" (or 11") pad carriers. I'm not sure if these were ever made by Girling, most I've seen are K-H.
-Bob
<<Edit>>
The 10.1 and 11" A2 Calipers have 54 cast into the bodies. I had originally said G60 but these are the 2 piston Audi brakes. I was out in the graage today and when I saw them sitting on the shelf I realized I had made a mistake, sorry.
No worries. I have a set of G60 Corrado spindles and brakes on the car now, and I have a second set of spindles, carriers and calipers in the spares box also from a Corrado. So I don't have to really worry much.
Interesting that the started as a simple ball joint extender thread and spread in to a discussion on brakes, calipers, spindles, etc. Oh well. Now I just have to make a few decisions on my next suspension setup, and see what I need to get. My cheap coil over sleeves work okay with the Koni single adj. inserts, but I'm thinking of how to get the car a bit lower, and then fix the bump steer issues. Decisions, decisions.
Bildon
New member
>> The stock arms are sandwiched, stamped steel, and tend to bend in the event of a shunt.
Try the 4cyl '90-'91 Passat control arms. No that's not a VR6 arm
http://www.bildon.com/pub/357407151MY.jpg
Try the 4cyl '90-'91 Passat control arms. No that's not a VR6 arm
http://www.bildon.com/pub/357407151MY.jpg
Joe Camilleri
New member
Here are 3 ways to do it.
[attachmentid=246][attachmentid=247][attachmentid=248]
[attachmentid=246][attachmentid=247][attachmentid=248]
Bill Miller
New member
Joe,
While the first two achieve the desired goal, the third was just a wast of 2 sets of stock arms. It does nothing at all to change the relationship of the ball joint pivot point to the control arm, and correspondingly, does not help w/ moving the roll center, when the car is lowered. While it may look like it does something, because the control arm that is attched to the chassis, appears level, what you have to look at, is the line drawn from the inner pickup point to the outer pickup point. You'll that the angle of that line, will be the same as the angle of the stock control arm, on two cars that are lowered the same amount. The roll center of the car in the third picture, is the same as if it had stock arms.
Joe Camilleri
New member
Hey, I never said that they were all good, just thought that I would share some of my reference photos.
I think that I am going to use a stock arm and ball joint with a spacer.
Bill Miller
New member
Chris,
Not sure what's up w/ those pics, but I can't see anything below the caliper.
Not sure what's up w/ those pics, but I can't see anything below the caliper.