Maybe Mopar is right!

Hi, im new to the forum and stumbled across this thread. I have a 95 ACR that i run in ITA in the PA hillclimb series. I have heard about the hub problem but never quite understood the severity of the failure. You guys have me freaked out now. When something fails on the hills you usually fly off into the trees because we dont have a nice runoff area like the tracks do.

So, from this thread it appears i only have two options. Get the SKF hub from Napa or the Timken from autoparts123. To me both are respectable brands, it seams hard to beat $67 bucks for the bearing and the hub for the Timken. Does the SKF come with the bearing too?

How often should i replace hubs. It would take 10 years of hillclimbing to accumulate 10 hours. We have about 10-15 runs a weekend and they are only 1-2 minutes long. I do about 10 events a year.

I have stock ACR suspension, poly bushings and run auto X V710s tires, sometimes RA1s when we do track time trials. Only twice a year.

As soon as i get some more money i will be taking some drivers schools and joining yall on the track, but for now its the affordable scary as sh*t world of hillclims for me. THanks for reading.
 
My MP ACR hubs and bearings showed up yesterday. $105.08 Cdn each on my doorstep. When I priced the hub alone, it was over $200.00.:shrug:WTF? I do have a tame dealer who sponsors me, but retail on the invoice was $135.

Anyway, I got 4, which should do me for quite a while.
 
DoubleXL240Z said:
autoparts123 shows a timken hub kit for 66.48 w/free shipping. They are sitting on the bench ready to go in our ACR this week. The bearings are actually FAG if I remember correctly.
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Any feedback on how the Timken hubs have performed in your car?

Did you slap a micrometer on those jokers and see what the flange size is compared to the Mopar and/or NAPA hubs?
 
For anyone that's interested I spoke to Timken and found out that their hubs are 9mm thick. They are manufactured by Bearing Technologies in Avon, Ohio. BT is the ONLY manufacturer of aftermarket wheel hub assemblies in the US, so I suspect that these are the same hubs as the NAPA/SKF ones, as NAPA does claim that their 9mm hubs are made in the US.
 
so those of you that check your axle bolt every race...does that mean you remove the cotter pin and the keeper every time or just removed them all together.

I have a set of MP hubs on my bench; i am going to get them cryo-frozen before installing them.
 
Yep, take the cotter pin & keeper off, check the torque, and put em back at least once every race weekend.

We run cryo'd Timkens on our car.
 
I ordered a set of Timken hubs and when they arrived they came in an SKF box. So, that would confirm my suspicion that they are the same hubs as those NAPA sells. I put a micrometer on them and verified that they are 9mm thick at the flange.

I had them pressed onto the knuckles and cryo'd both assemblies (hub,bearing,knuckle). Ran them last weekend in an enduro and will run another 4 race weekends or so then replace.

I'm thinking of sending them to a metalurgy lab when I pull them off to get an analysis done to find out how much fatigue has occured. I am interested to know if the cryo makes a huge difference. Anyone have a hookup to a metalurgy lab who might want to donate an analysis for the sake of research?
 
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