Mk3 Golf VR6 in ITS

We had no problems with the motor itself, and believe me when I tell you that it got driven very hard for a street car when someone besides myself drove it. But I seem to remember that it ate spark plugs; had to use good ones, not just any off the shelf. Previous owner (as with many VWs) had hacked up the wiring to the point where it caused other issues, which is one of the reasons we ended up getting rid of it.

Loved the car, hated the insurance, hated knowing that if some moron hit me that the insurance company would total it.
 
The VR6 is pretty sought. One weak point would be the timing chain guides. Another would be the head gasket; if the car has been neglected they usually start to leak externally on the passenger side of the motor behind the serp. belt. The thermostat housing and related parts like the “crack pipe” can start to leak too if they are higher mileage. If you are looking at using a higher mileage motor I would do the following:

-Replace timing chains & guides (about $150 in parts)
-Inspect the water pump and replace if needed with a pump that has a metal impeller ($45-$50)
-Replace the thermostat housing and add an aluminum “crack pipe” ($130-$150 for a “total kit”)
-Inspect the oil pan & oil pump for damage & replace gasket

I would also replace the clutch and TO bearing. Motor mounts would be good too. There is one other item that might need attention. All VR6 cars have an electric after run/secondary water pump. Over time they leak and can be price, $150-$170 new. They can be bypassed and the car will still run fine. There are some thing I have left out I’m sure but if you have any questions feel free to let me know.


PS: VW Heater Cores will leak with age, luckly you can bypass it...
 
suki101 said:
The VR6 is pretty sought. One weak point would be the timing chain guides. Another would be the head gasket; if the car has been neglected they usually start to leak externally on the passenger side of the motor behind the serp. belt. The thermostat housing and related parts like the “crack pipe” can start to leak too if they are higher mileage. If you are looking at using a higher mileage motor I would do the following:

-Replace timing chains & guides (about $150 in parts)
-Inspect the water pump and replace if needed with a pump that has a metal impeller ($45-$50)
-Replace the thermostat housing and add an aluminum “crack pipe” ($130-$150 for a “total kit”)
-Inspect the oil pan & oil pump for damage & replace gasket

I would also replace the clutch and TO bearing. Motor mounts would be good too. There is one other item that might need attention. All VR6 cars have an electric after run/secondary water pump. Over time they leak and can be price, $150-$170 new. They can be bypassed and the car will still run fine. There are some thing I have left out I’m sure but if you have any questions feel free to let me know.


PS: VW Heater Cores will leak with age, luckly you can bypass it...
Click to expand...

Agreed! The trans has a weak 2nd gear, 3-4-5 are good....ya shouldnt need 2nd anyway...
 
Lael Cleland said:
Agreed! The trans has a weak 2nd gear, 3-4-5 are good....ya shouldnt need 2nd anyway...
Click to expand...

True, 2nd gear syncro goes away......

Oh and from 1993 all VR6 cars have a secondary air injection pump, which can be easily deleted. Pre OBDII cars, 1992-95, have an EGR valve and idle stablizer valve too. Not really problem areas just an FYI.
 
I have probabally over 2500 lapping & Time Trial miles in my mkIII gti vr6. Never once did it give me any grief. I did go through a lot of wheel bearings though. You MUST have a very large oil cooler though and brake ducts. I love that car, however i don't think it is a good race car platform, there is just too much weight in front of the front axle. Most other cars in ITS aka the Integra type R is more competitive.
 
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