gran racing
Super Moderator
What grade bolts should I be looking for?
I'm not sure how the grading works...the higher the number the better?
I'm not sure how the grading works...the higher the number the better?
Nuts & bolts packages...
- Thread starter gran racing
- Start date
The higher the grade the stronger. We use only Grade 8 for miscellaneous connections for crash testing.
You can tell the grade by the "tick" marks on the bolt head. Here is what a Grade 8 looks like: http://www.venturehardware.com/grade8headmarkings.gif
Watch out for fake Grade 8 bolts! Safest bet is US made.
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Gregg Baker, P.E.
Isaac, LLC
http://www.isaacdirect.com
As GBaker knows the general rule for use of Grade 8 or 10.9 is for connections that require the highest strength. Grade 5 or 8.8 is fine for putting fenders on. It is a personal choice if you elect to use Grade 8/10.9 for things such as battery trays for example.
One reason I suggest the dealership is that they sell the correctly engineered hardware for the car. If the car use "torque to yield" bolts (mine does), then I feel more comfortable with factory hardware since there is no guarantee that the aftermarket part will yield as required.
For those wondering about grading there are several excellent texts on the subject, including Carroll Smiths book and the SAE website.
Happy holidays everyone
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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow
One reason I suggest the dealership is that they sell the correctly engineered hardware for the car. If the car use "torque to yield" bolts (mine does), then I feel more comfortable with factory hardware since there is no guarantee that the aftermarket part will yield as required.
For those wondering about grading there are several excellent texts on the subject, including Carroll Smiths book and the SAE website.
Happy holidays everyone
------------------
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow
gran racing
Super Moderator
Well, I've been looking at all of the companies everyone has mentioned. Most sell grade 8.8 metric bolts, but not an assortment of the high grade bolts. One place does have an assortment, but it out of stock and is very expensive. I really want the higher grade bolts.
Here's the question - I went to NAPA today and they have an assortment box of standard and fine metric bolts (and nuts) package for $195. This includes a very large assortment and has approximately 60 of each type. They stated that they typically sell this package to garages in the area. I'll never go through 60 and don't want to spend $200 for this.
Would anyone have interest in splitting this with me? If interested, I can get a copy of the package they sell and e-mail it to you. There are several place mentioned above that sell bolt containers and we could split the cost for the extra container as well.
Just let me know if you have any interest...
Thanks,
Dave
[email protected]
(If someone is, I'll indicate that on this post...)
Here's the question - I went to NAPA today and they have an assortment box of standard and fine metric bolts (and nuts) package for $195. This includes a very large assortment and has approximately 60 of each type. They stated that they typically sell this package to garages in the area. I'll never go through 60 and don't want to spend $200 for this.
Would anyone have interest in splitting this with me? If interested, I can get a copy of the package they sell and e-mail it to you. There are several place mentioned above that sell bolt containers and we could split the cost for the extra container as well.
Just let me know if you have any interest...
Thanks,
Dave
[email protected]
(If someone is, I'll indicate that on this post...)
I'll be less subtle:
Use anything besides OE hardware on any part that (a) you need to stay on your car for it to be safe or finish, or (
weighs more than a pound, at your own peril.
Most of the aftermarket metric hardware available in the US is crrrrrap, regardless of what number is on stamped on the head and it is VERY hard to tell the good crap from the bad crap.
Kirk
Use anything besides OE hardware on any part that (a) you need to stay on your car for it to be safe or finish, or (
weighs more than a pound, at your own peril.Most of the aftermarket metric hardware available in the US is crrrrrap, regardless of what number is on stamped on the head and it is VERY hard to tell the good crap from the bad crap.
Kirk
Bill Miller
New member
Ok, I'll chime in here. While I know they're free, and I've used them myself in the past, I'm not really a fan of using j/y bolts for critical stuff. Why risk serious injury/death/crash damage to save a couple of $$? Some stuff just isn't worth the risk of using hardware of unknown or questionable origin. I'm sure we've all got "the box" (or coffee can, or whatever) of assorted used nuts/bolts/washers/etc. You just throw the extra stuff in the box in case you ever need it. And I'll admit that "the box" has saved my butt on more than one occasion.
But, as we all know, there's not that big a variety in what we use on our cars. I can probably take 80% of the fastners on a VW apart w/ a 10, 13, 15, and 17mm wrench/socket. I believe these correspond to 4, 6, 8, and 10 mm bolts. Figure out what you use, get a couple of different sizes (lengths), and order what you need from some place like McMaster-Carr or Grainger. You can also deal w/ aircraft suppliers and get AN stuff. I belive Pegasus sells AN sets, but they're not cheap.
For critical, and specialty stuff, I use OEM. For example, in a VW, I always replace the axle nut when I have to remove the old one. They're not much money, and they see so damn much torque, I don't want to risk it. I also use OEM bolts for things like the shock mounts, caliper mounts, etc. And then, in certain cases, there's even better stuff than stock. For example, I think using ARP rod bolts is better than stock. At least you can reuse them.
JMHO
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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
But, as we all know, there's not that big a variety in what we use on our cars. I can probably take 80% of the fastners on a VW apart w/ a 10, 13, 15, and 17mm wrench/socket. I believe these correspond to 4, 6, 8, and 10 mm bolts. Figure out what you use, get a couple of different sizes (lengths), and order what you need from some place like McMaster-Carr or Grainger. You can also deal w/ aircraft suppliers and get AN stuff. I belive Pegasus sells AN sets, but they're not cheap.
For critical, and specialty stuff, I use OEM. For example, in a VW, I always replace the axle nut when I have to remove the old one. They're not much money, and they see so damn much torque, I don't want to risk it. I also use OEM bolts for things like the shock mounts, caliper mounts, etc. And then, in certain cases, there's even better stuff than stock. For example, I think using ARP rod bolts is better than stock. At least you can reuse them.
JMHO
------------------
MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
gran racing
Super Moderator
I went to NAPA today - he took apart a few Mazda trucks and other foreign cars and had a big box of bolts / nuts. He told me to take as much as I wanted for $5. Very cool. (Of course I gave him more than that...) This should at least get me by in those emergency situations.
He also told me how much he would sell me that bolts package for - $85. The mark-up is pretty high; normally $192.
I do understand that OEM bolts are better than most. But I also have been in situations where not having a silly bolt caused me to miss qualifing and a practice session. My other friend almost missed a race because of a missing bolt. One freakn' $0.29 bolt.
At least this way I have something avail.
Hmmm. Another sponsorship opportunity? A parts store giving me at cost prices (plus a few bucks)? Not a bad idea...I'll have to talk to him again.
He also told me how much he would sell me that bolts package for - $85. The mark-up is pretty high; normally $192.
I do understand that OEM bolts are better than most. But I also have been in situations where not having a silly bolt caused me to miss qualifing and a practice session. My other friend almost missed a race because of a missing bolt. One freakn' $0.29 bolt.
At least this way I have something avail.
Hmmm. Another sponsorship opportunity? A parts store giving me at cost prices (plus a few bucks)? Not a bad idea...I'll have to talk to him again.
gran racing
Super Moderator
I understand that while two bolts may be graded the same, one might be better than the other. But I have to believe there are bolts other than "OEM" bolts that are just as good as "OEM" bolts.
When people bring their car to a good mechanic shop, what do they use? I know they don't use OEM bolts.
And what are Original Equipment Manufactured bolts? In my situation, I drive a Honda. It is not like Honda makes their own bolts (at least according to the dealership - I was curious so I asked around). Another company makes them cheaply for Honda and other companies. And yes, I do get that a OEM bolt is safer then going to the hardware store and taking a chance. You know you are getting something decent.
Just think of all the bolts out there. UCONN just built a football stadium last year - I heard how many bolts were used and laughed. That's a lot of bolts.
I know it sounds like I'm being a pain in the butt here (and going nuts - sorry, couldn't resist) but it just got me thinking. And yes, I'll be keeping all the bolts I take off my parts car.
When people bring their car to a good mechanic shop, what do they use? I know they don't use OEM bolts.
And what are Original Equipment Manufactured bolts? In my situation, I drive a Honda. It is not like Honda makes their own bolts (at least according to the dealership - I was curious so I asked around). Another company makes them cheaply for Honda and other companies. And yes, I do get that a OEM bolt is safer then going to the hardware store and taking a chance. You know you are getting something decent.
Just think of all the bolts out there. UCONN just built a football stadium last year - I heard how many bolts were used and laughed. That's a lot of bolts.
I know it sounds like I'm being a pain in the butt here (and going nuts - sorry, couldn't resist) but it just got me thinking. And yes, I'll be keeping all the bolts I take off my parts car.
T
Tom Blaney
Guest
I have collected a large "bucket of bolts" that I strip off of anything that I can get my hands on. The only problem is I'm too lazy to sort them out, just have to dig in and search.
But I also did some digging around with the bolt suppliers and found that it's better to buy a box of nuts and bolts that are close to what you typically use (or lose) from a good auto parts supplier. It's good for you and builds relationships.
The only exception is when I build new motors, then all the bolts are new and OEM.
But I also did some digging around with the bolt suppliers and found that it's better to buy a box of nuts and bolts that are close to what you typically use (or lose) from a good auto parts supplier. It's good for you and builds relationships.
The only exception is when I build new motors, then all the bolts are new and OEM.