Oil Metering Pump

Hey Bill - there's a guy here in the NE who I understand had a mechanical pump on the S5 motor. He'd run OK for 3 laps and then crap out. Took him forever to figure out he needed the electrical pump.

I'm no expert - but this guy had the worst luck at the track until he got this sorted out. I'm pretty sure his name is Mark Lovell. Mark, if your out there let us know what you learned.

Cheers,

bp
 
I'll be at Mid-Ohio. Will try to paddock near Paul by the Truechoice building.

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

[This message has been edited by C. Ludwig (edited June 21, 2005).]
 
Doug and I will be arriving late Fri. - save us some space if possible.

Ben, that sounds like the problem except for one thing - Doug's car has had the same mechanical OMP on it since he got it and this limp mode issue is new. :-/



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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis
 
That's weird - got me stumped.

Y'all gotta give me a race recap - I want to hear the Bill and Doug team were on the podium!
 
Originally posted by bldn10:
Doug and I will be arriving late Fri. - save us some space if possible.

Ben, that sounds like the problem except for one thing - Doug's car has had the same mechanical OMP on it since he got it and this limp mode issue is new. :-/
Click to expand...


I think in a previous post you said you thought it had all the S5 stuff?

If it's using the S5 computer, harness, sensors, etc and there is no S5 OMP plugged into the harness that is his problem.



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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Here is the funny thing. When I bought the car from Jason Sessions in Florida I ran it at Hallet OK, with no problems, the following week we went to Barber AL, and had no problems. Didn't run it until Memphis in March and it was running fine on practice day and in the race on saturday until the tranny let go. I didn't touch the car other than I let Bill Borrow my fuel rail (he was thinking that his was screwing up since his pressure was low) and I pu the rail and injectors back together and put the tranny back in and headed to the track for the May race in Memphis. Well on practice day last two sessions the problem came up. I rememberred the thread on this and turned the kill switch off and it started working again until about 1/2 a lap and started again. The funny thing is that the car will still rev but is just down on power about 2-3 seconds a lap. I come in to the pits and turn the car off and back on and it is fixed until about a 1/2 a lap again. I got the throttle positioning thing back together right based on the two light thing anyway. On Sunday I went out for practice and it ran the whole time without happening but no good laps so I qualified 4 or 5 on the grid with a slow qualifying lap time and when I went out it ran for about a lap or two and I was going to pass a few guys and then it happened again. The wierd thing is my tach on a pie dash will go dead when it happens. The reading just goes completely away and turn the kill switch back on and tach come back up and the motor pulls again and then it goes again. Wierd deal. I have a had the same OMP on the car the whole time. There is on thing that is very obvious, there is not any oil in the lines coming from the OMP they are a clean as a fish tank line, by visual it looks like it is nothing or water running through it. I think I am going to try the OMP and computer and see if I can get it to happen again before going to Mid-Ohio. I would hate to tow that far tand the thing not run worth a shiznit. I am going to get my but kicked anyway so I need to have every edge I can get. Hope to see everyone there.



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SpeedSource rx-7 ITS #12
2004 Suburban white
2001 supercrew white (tow vehicle)
memphis
 
Well, the new OMP is now installed (used actually). Racing at NHIS in about 10 days so we'll see how it goes. It gave me one check engine light after I first ran it. Shut it down and the light hasn't come back and I'm hoping the computer was just getting used to a new unit.....

Also traced my ground wire to see if that might be why the car is breaking up a little. The friggin thing was frayed down to mucho bare wire down and contacting the side of the fender! Hopefully that is an easy fix. Couldn't see as it was contacting the car and only after being tugged on did I see the fraying.
 
Well it appears that it was the computer. I put in a new computer and the problem went away.


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SpeedSource rx-7 ITS #12
2004 Suburban white
2001 supercrew white (tow vehicle)
memphis
 
My woes persist badly. Just spent three days at NHIS and never ran a hot lap. Check this out. We replaced:

Computer, 2 oil metering pumps, both coils, crank angle sensor, entire wiring harness, pressure sensor, mass air flow meter, TPS, plug wires, ground wires, added wires, ohmed everything including the injectors. We might try replacing those.

Car will fire up, gets to temperature, hold the throttle at 7000 and it goes right into safety or limp mode. We also cannot get accurate codes from the car. I liked one suggestion which was cut off the front of the car and replace the whole thing!

Suggestions anybody? We had an entire garage of people looking this over - much thanks to everybody, especially Jamie who helped replace the wiring harness.



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BenSpeed
#33 ITS RX7
BigSpeed Racing
NNJR BoD - Treasurer
[email protected]
NNJR
 
Well, the CAS was the only thing you didn't mention. Try another one of those.

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Actually he did mention the CAS or crank angle sensor
smile.gif
Ben, it sounds like you have a gremlin on a grand scale. Sorry I don't have any thing valuable to offer.
 
I threw it out once and I might as well do it again since you have tried everything else - water thermosensor. Also, if your car has a resistor in the water thermosensor wire, it might be bad or the wire shorted.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis
 
ben
i have a suggestion. BUY A SHOWROOM STOCK CAR!!!!! i am having fun again racing at a national level. and learning to drive MUCH faster.
john costello
 
Originally posted by jcmotorsports:
ben
i have a suggestion. BUY A SHOWROOM STOCK CAR!!!!! i am having fun again racing at a national level. and learning to drive MUCH faster.
john costello
Click to expand...

I'd go T1 or T2 - something newer that doesn't break or go BMW and have more people in my area who can work on the car. The closest shop for a RX7 is 100 miles.

My hopes are with Flatout Motorsports - looking to see if they fix it and test the car on 8/2 before the LRP race. Eric King is going also.

This much of a pain takes the fun out of racing.
 
Bill Denton, re the thermosensor are you refering to the one at the back of the water pump housing that connects to the harness via the green "injector-like" connector? While we were working on Ben's car this weekend someone mentioned that that may be bad a confusing the computer but we didn't have one.

Jamie

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Jamie Kekeisen
86 ITS RX-7 NER
92 325IS under construction
 
Yes, that's it; I think it has a green connector. Ben seems to have gone through everything that sends a signal to the ECU except it so it seems the next logical choice. This sensor most assuredly has an effect on how the car runs becuase, as I implied, some people put a variable resistor in the wire that allows some A/F mixture adjustment. It is this sensor that tells the ECU how hot the engine is running - if it says it is too hot, the ECU calls (I think this is right) for more fuel because the relatively cool fuel acts as a coolant, and we all know that a richer mixture runs cooler. If a bogus signal or no signal is received by the ECU, I am speculating that it may go into limp or some mode that mimics limp. If someone spliced a resistor somewhere in the line (to trick the ECU into thinking the engine is running hotter/cooler than it is) either the resistor could be bad or the splice failed. Just grabbing at straws, guys.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis
 
Hey Bill - thanks for the suggestion. I'll mention it to Flatout and they can test it. If that's it, I'm buying you mucho beer!
 
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