Roll cage bad bend?

Further headaches--it looks like the main hoop diagonal and cross tube are a different diameter than the main hoop. Those are all required to be the same size.
I'll second the comments on the welds--they look cold with poor penetration.

With a finger or a dental mirror, inspect for full circumfrence welds in all the tight locations (under the roof, behind the A-pillar, etc.

I tend to agree with the group--cut it out and and start over. Sorry.
 
Well folks after further review from all your help the curse words have begun fly. The welds are all of poor quality, there are gaps in the hard to reach areas. Not only that but after measuring the mounting plates they are only .040 thick! half of the required thickness, this cage is junk! I may as well be driving with a cage made out of empty beer cans and duct tape (full beer cans would be too structurally sound) I am in amazement with the awful construction of this cage. The lesson has been learned, never assume that a roll cage is of good quality if it comes from a quality shop. I don't want to release the name of the shop since they mainly specialize in drag racing so this may not be a fair evaluation in the quality of their workmanship. From talking to the owner of the shop (who built this car for himself) this cage was designed for an F-body car but modified to fit a Ford Probe. I'm not sure why a cage for an F-body which is heavier than a Probe was built so skimpy. Regardless it seems the wallet is going on a diet and i'm gonna have to evaluate my options. Any opinions on how to go forward with this would be greatly appreciated.

1. Completely remove this cage and install another
2. Use the other Ford Probe I have to install a cage and swap performance goodies from the current bad cage car
3. Sell as is to someone willing and move on to a car with logbook already issued!
4. Anything else I haven't thought of
 
Ouch. Yeah, there's really nothing there to salvage.

I'd strongly suggest #3 not only because you'll have a bit more of a "known quantity" WRT legality but you'll also save $$ vs. building your own. On top of this, it might allow you to pick a chassis that will be a bit more competitive in class. My suggestion would be to look at Honda, Mazda, and VW's as there are typically plenty of competitively classed cars on the market.

Christian
 
Ouch. I feel for you. If you're a Probe nut and absolutely MUST drive a Probe, #2 could be an option. Swap everything over to a fresh build then scrap value for the chassis. Otherwise, #3

Let us know your location and we can probably point you in the right direction for a quality cage or an already logbooked car.
 
I know it sucks and feel for you big time. Been there done that, luckily not on my dime. Could you please do someone else a favor and cut the thing up. You would feel horrible if you sold it as-is and heard someone got hurt because they weren't paying attention. I know, shame on them, but it's one thing to screw somebody out of money vs. life.
 
This should be about 3-4 hours from you.

www.rollcageguy.com

Mark does excellent work, he's just on your the west edge of akron. I'm sure others can point you somewhere else but his work is top notch and his prices are very reasonable

Brian Frank
 
I'll second Mark's work, having put my Z3 on it's roof. The spot that's deformed on your cage is right where the most damage is on mine. However, on mine the top corner moved down by an inch or so by bending in that same spot.

I understand that Mark's not even as expensive as you'd think.

James
 
Probe from hell...

I wouldn't sell what's left. I'd bet the info you received about the cage is incorrect. No respectable shop would send this cage out the door on purpose. For the sake of other competitors in any racing series, remove the good parts, crush the rest.
 
fiero14 said:
.... I'd bet the info you received about the cage is incorrect. No respectable shop would send this cage out the door on purpose.
Click to expand...

You're correct, no respectable shop would. Unfortunately, there are a lot of shops out there that have done/currently do/will do that kind of work and pass it off as normal. Some of the stuff out there is just plain scary.
 
Correction on the mounting plates they're actually about a .140 most likely .125 since it's difficult to get an actual measurement on them, stupid move on my part reading the dial caliper incorrectly derrr. I'll be taking it to a tech inspector in Indy to get his opinion but so far it looks like i'll be replacing the front downtubes as well as the horizontal and diagnol bracing inside the main hoop assuming all other existing welds are "ok". Before I take it down though if I were to drill a hole in the cage to check wall thickness where would a good location to do that be?
 
Drill a 3/16" hole 6" away from any bend or weld is ideal, but not always possible.

IMO, if you're cutting the front out, and the harness/diagonal out.... just cut the entire cage out. It's a bigger PITA to try and fit to something thats already there than it is to start fresh and you'll never get the fit that you would by starting with a clean slate. Also, the Hoop material has already been welded to one time (even though penetration is doubtful) in the same areas that you'll be reattaching to. Bad juju ;)

When you drill the hole, run a paperclip around inside the tube and feel for a weld seam. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it was an off the shelf ERW cage, in which case it'll have to come back out anyway.
 
I would go with Number 2, you may uncover other problems as you disassemble this car. Go Number 3 only if you are absolutely certain the car is sound, otherwise you are right back where you started.
 
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