The New Race Build......

SATURNRACER

New member
Here it is I brought her home today.
My new car is a 1994 Saturn SC2 the funny thing is that it was converted to a SC1 front and rear because of weight and air intake on the front, it was a turbo build that never happened.
I have the fenders and the nose for a 96 SC2. After running Russels Nissan and seeing Xian's Honda I have some great ideas. Hopefully she will be as nice as Lawtons SC2.
Any input or help will be great... :eclipsee_steering:
 

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Here it is I brought her home today.
My new car is a 1994 Saturn SC2 the funny thing is that it was converted to a SC1 front and rear because of weight and air intake on the front, it was a turbo build that never happened.
I have the fenders and the nose for a 96 SC2. After running Russels Nissan and seeing Xian's Honda I have some great ideas. Hopefully she will be as nice as Lawtons SC2.
Any input or help will be great... :eclipsee_steering:


over at the corner of catalina and helen osteen there is an SC2 for sale for 1100.

I was actually thinking about it as a nice little DD, then maybe go from there to auto x.
I like the bigish 4 cyl, I've heard the handling is pretty decent...of course performance parts might be a harder find...but cant be more difficult than for my ITB suzuki swift
 
Thats a decent price for a dd...they auto x the heck out of these cars.
Parts there is Saturnmotorsports and SPS that still have some things left.
Engine is easy to work on and pretty tuff too.
Between Lawton and myself we could give ya the engine build setups...

Andy my PM's are now on thanks.
 
Lookin' good. I see you've already got it to IT legal ride height! ;)

BTW, out of curiousity, what's the advantage to this chassis over your other Saturn?

Christian
 
The reason is the older one has a shorter wheelbase and is less weight, And lower air profile than my tub.
I have always liked the older model better. I guess it would be crazier if I was building a Sedan?????lol

I did not get the chance to help with the initial build with my car when it was prepped for SS. I did do all the ITA development wich was fun but I just want to one from the ground up.
It's the only way to catch you guys!!!:D
 
Gotcha. SWB should make it easier to setup to rotate a better. Lighter weight is also a great bonus!

Yeah, starting from ground Zero is time consuming and costly but at least you get to do it exactly how you want. The catch is, that even when you do it how you want, there will still be some items you want to change when it's all over with ;)
 
Anyone make a FD for a Saturn yet? I know Lawton was asking me about it at Mid Ohio. I think it was the race Amy and Ruck tangled.
 
We only wish they made final drive for it, shoot its taken the better part of a year to get enough people together to get a fresh run of Quaife diffs made. Even that is probably the last run that will come out. The lack of parts is whats pushing me to go to an STU build but OB wants a fresh start in ITA so ITA it is (for his car atleast, mine is going to have to go stu as we throw all the remaining spare parts at his)

So what was this about "no don't worry about coming down to help unload it, the car is just going to stay on the trailer for a while"?
 
LOL heck you know me i couldn't wait,,,, We need to get this thing going... MEGASQUIRT..... I'm taking all the body panels off Tuesday and stripping all the sound deadening..any easy ideas on that besides jut the old heat gun...

M3 pipe bender might be on the way....Jeff is pumped about it and has his welder fired up already...:D

Wait a second spare parts thrown at me........
 
LOL heck you know me i couldn't wait,,,, We need to get this thing going... MEGASQUIRT..... I'm taking all the body panels off Tuesday and stripping all the sound deadening..any easy ideas on that besides jut the old heat gun...

M3 pipe bender might be on the way....Jeff is pumped about it and has his welder fired up already...:D

Wait a second spare parts thrown at me........

Heat gun and scraper, not sure for the rest of the adhesive. A wire wheel could finish off the adhesive residue to prep for repaint if you don't come up with anything else.
Not going to lie I'm a little scared with Ugga excited to weld, need to get our Scottsman back. and for spare parts I have one sway bar left but I think its not going to balance with out a world challenge front bar (that you can't have, yet) there is one header left but I think its going to take me tuning one for our horrible gear spacing to try and solve the lack of power when you loose the power band during the 4-5 shift. Other than that I'm about out of ita parts, a few stu legal parts but even then they are few and far between. Could have new strut housings fabricated soon......
 
but I think its going to take me tuning one for our horrible gear spacing to try and solve the lack of power when you loose the power band during the 4-5 shift. ...


What???? ya mean it's not good when you go from 7500 RPMs in 4th to 3000 in 5th??



Yeah, that fifth is a dog!!!

Fortunately we only hit one track where we need fifth so it hasn't been a big deal
 
Are you doing this yourself? are you modifying the orginal ones?
from scratch I'm afraid, our old carrera housings only offer perch height adjustment. Basically want to build a new universal housing for the Koni 8610 and 8611 inserts that allows for both perch and pickup height adjustments to allow independent ride height and cornerweight changes. If money was no option then the Koni 2817's would fix everything but we're poor.... so now we get to reinvent the wheel (afordably I hope)
 
Heat gun and scraper, not sure for the rest of the adhesive. A wire wheel could finish off the adhesive residue to prep for repaint if you don't come up with anything else.

Wire wheel works well for undercoating too...

For interior sound deadening, I hear dry ice on the floorboards, hammer, and chisel also works.
 
from scratch I'm afraid, our old carrera housings only offer perch height adjustment. Basically want to build a new universal housing for the Koni 8610 and 8611 inserts that allows for both perch and pickup height adjustments to allow independent ride height and cornerweight changes. If money was no option then the Koni 2817's would fix everything but we're poor.... so now we get to reinvent the wheel (afordably I hope)

I am having to do the same thing on the front of my MR2 currently. my plan is to get a generic 45mm ID tube to fit the shock weld on some ears that may have to get water jetted, then send the piece to teh machine shop to get the gland nut threads cut. after that is done, install it and mark where to weld teh tabs for the sway bar.

Is that your basic plan or is there a cheaper way?
 
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