What engine oil do you use and why?

I spent alot of time researching oils and reading into the testing proceedures. From what I could find. Heck even at PRI I talked to every oil manufacturer there to get Technical Data Sheets on their product. Chemistry is fun :)

If I could afford it Mobil 1 Racing oil (not off the counter stuff) is extremely stable and is built truely synthetic starting from ethane gas.

since that is very expensive. I found that second best for my application is Amsoil. It buys the base stock from Mobil so the benefits of a true Group 4 base stock is there. It is also almost just as stable above the 210*f mark. Since I run very high oil temps ~270* after cooler, filter, and 6' of lines. I need temperature stablity.

If you have more moderate oil temps, then this opens you to more options.
 
The engine will look brand new inside, even with the rod sticking out.
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This. Engine temp gauge failed, of course so did a coolant hose. Engine fried. Amazing how good things looked inside. Well, most of it anyway.
 
jimmy p said:
+ 1 for Brad Penn racing 20-50
Very cost effective vs the other oils posted here and good stuff.
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I talked to the Brad Penn guys. The Brad Penn oils are what is left from the original oil fields and factory as Kendall GT1 back in the day. Infact when Kendall was bought out by some other ocmpanies the old workers at the Kendall plant are the ones that started Brad Penn.

Atleast that was the story I got from then at PRI.
 
Anyone know anything about the Joe Gibbs line of syn oils?Since those NASCAR folks run high revs and temps for so long I'm wondering how that stuff is. Expensive....perhaps they pour Mobil One into Joe Gibbs bottles and sell it that way....LOL
 
BruceG said:
Anyone know anything about the Joe Gibbs line of syn oils?Since those NASCAR folks run high revs and temps for so long I'm wondering how that stuff is. Expensive....perhaps they pour Mobil One into Joe Gibbs bottles and sell it that way....LOL
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The Gibbs oil that I've seen is semi-syn... I was quite surprised.
 
Re: What oil do you use

I now use Redline 30w in the SRF.

In the past I used Valvoline dino 10w30 racing oil in my IT MR2. Never had a problem with it after I added the accusump.
I did end up switching to Royal Purple 11 (5w30) and noticed a good improvemet on the dyno over the Valvoline dino racing 10w30.

Still use Valvoline 20W50 VR1 Synthetic in the 305 sprint car with no problems. I have heard of people having issues with the dino VR1 if they have the traditional flat tappet/lifters in their engine package. That's why I run the Syn VR1 or the Valvoline/NAPA not street legal racing oil in that car.

If I had a pushrod motor that didn't have roller lifters, I would definetly use a ZDDP aditive with the standard motor oils of today. Supposedly, the ZDDP additives were taken out/reduced to protect O2 sensors and catalytic converters for oils marketed for gasoline automotive engines or having a "S*" designation.

But I am not an expert on this subject at all.
If you look for papers for tribelogoy you find some interesting facts about lubrication out there. Tribelogy, is the engineering field related to lubrication.

Great subject to post though!
 
Mobil One

In our Mk III VW engine, which has over 70 hrs on it, we have used Mobil One, 10w/ 30 exclusively. We change the filter (Fram) after every weekend, Change the oil every other weekend ( probably could go longer). We also use a 13 row oil cooler mounted low in the front grill area. On the long course at Daytona & Sebring the oil temp is usually 220, (in Summer) but on the short course at Sebring, temp usually 240. David Boles at Atlantic Auto Works taught me to give the VW rods a little more side clearence to help get the temps down....But only turning the engine 6200-6400 also helps. David Ellis-Brown
 
Oil threads are the bane of motorsports forums. Typically not a tribologist in the group but plenty of anecdotal evidence discussed as fact.

I use oil which is slippery and it hasn't ever failed me. Now that is a fact.
 
You got flat tappets in that Roostang?

You might rethink that if you had seen the cam shaft that came out of my car.
 
JeffYoung said:
You got flat tappets in that Roostang?

You might rethink that if you had seen the cam shaft that came out of my car.
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I hear you, but one point of data can't be accepted as true because it is the only one available. The failure could be caused by poor metallurgy/hardening/machining of the cam, a lobe, lifters, or all three; localized geometry problems if the lifter/lobe, a valve spring with too much pressure, improper break in procedures, or a localized oiling problem in the galley or lifter. Or a number of other causes.

The Mustang has roller lifters.
 
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8/5oz for every gallon of fuel (premixed like a weed wacker).... I'm like a local Exxon Valdez spewing into the atmosphere
 
Ron Earp said:
Oil threads are the bane of motorsports forums. Typically not a tribologist in the group but plenty of anecdotal evidence discussed as fact.

I use oil which is slippery and it hasn't ever failed me. Now that is a fact.
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I was curious as to what kind of oil people preferred and why just as a matter of discussion among car people. Some people are very particular and use hard to find oil and others are using what's on the shelf at the part store. It's kind of a wide range of preference considering what we all do. What would be fun is seeing how race results match up to oil selection.

Honestly, anything a tribologist would have to say would be well over my head.
 
Is the Capain drunk Glen?? lol....

lawtonglenn said:
8/5oz for every gallon of fuel (premixed like a weed wacker).... I'm like a local Exxon Valdez spewing into the atmosphere
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Speaking of weird brands, for a number of years I used this pink stuff called Lubrication Engineers from Texas. Not even sure what it was, other than expensive. Speedshop guy sold me on it. Come ot find out he had bought out the last remaining stocks of this stuff and was pushing it like snake oil.

So to a certain extent I agree with Ron, a lot of this is snake oil stuff, but some is not. It's been proven that lack of zinc will case flat tappet cams to fail -- lots of experience out there on that. I won't make that mistake again.
 
JeffYoung said:
So to a certain extent I agree with Ron, a lot of this is snake oil stuff, but some is not. It's been proven that lack of zinc will case flat tappet cams to fail -- lots of experience out there on that. I won't make that mistake again.
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Zink dawg, zink!
 
In the Mee-Otter it gets the VR-1 synthetic 10-30 because it is by and large a street motor that spins fast so I stay w/ the OE weight. Synthetic because it tends to deal with the heat better & I have no idea hot it gets, VR-1 because it has a higher zinc content than most oils and that seems to be a good thing, lastly, I can buy it off the shelf. When it changes from clear to carmel color, it gets changed.

On my Nissan, the engine builder pointed at a case of VR-1 20-50 and said 'use that' when I asked. This guy had been building motors for longer than I've had a driver's license so I didn't question it.
 
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