Differentials

I think that they call that "torque steer" where the right side wheel is the only wheel "pulling" so it would want to go that direction.

So much for theory, eh Mark?

P.S. How many mixture kits have you sold through EBay and other places? Lurking business on the side? Would it be possible to build the entire kit, with EGT sensor and guage for $$$'s ?

P.S.S Just got some 15x7 rims for the Wabbit. I've got 2 sets of 13x6's and 1 set of Ronal 13x5.5 (ex Rabbit Cup wheels). I couldn't find any decent 13x7 rims for GP, so went with the 15x7. Now I have to get some 23x9.5x15 slicks.

Good luck in 03

Tim


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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 ITB GTI, GP for 2002
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html
 
Originally posted by racer_tim:
I think that they call that "torque steer" where the right side wheel is the only wheel "pulling" so it would want to go that direction.

So much for theory, eh Mark?

P.S. How many mixture kits have you sold through EBay and other places? Lurking business on the side? Would it be possible to build the entire kit, with EGT sensor and guage for $$$'s ?

P.S.S Just got some 15x7 rims for the Wabbit. I've got 2 sets of 13x6's and 1 set of Ronal 13x5.5 (ex Rabbit Cup wheels). I couldn't find any decent 13x7 rims for GP, so went with the 15x7. Now I have to get some 23x9.5x15 slicks.

Good luck in 03

Tim
Click to expand...


I've sold a few through Ebay and here on this site. Enough to pay for a couple of tires during the season. I've thought about doing the whole kit w/ hardware but then I have to invest and tie up racing capital in inventory.
It's just a little side thing I do for fun. I've thought about doing my checklists (I have developed a couple of different ones - race car prep and packing lists ) the same way. People are always asking me about them.

About those rims: how are you going to counteract the fact that your CG is now 1.5" higher? The full prep cars can get away with it because they can relocate the suspension pickup points, but you can't. Personally, I'd stick with the 13's and sell the 15's. Just my $.02!

MC

Related topic: Walt Puckett's making close ratio gears for the VW 020 transmissions, with good ratios like the VWMS gearbox, at a fraction of the cost. (I should let the rest of you know we're prod racers, Tim and I, and we don't use such things in an IT VW!).
smile.gif





[This message has been edited by racer14itc (edited November 21, 2002).]
 
After going through a spell of breaking 4 cv axles in 4 weekends with a welded, I can surely tell you that the car pulls in the direction to the side that the CV axle breaks, usually thats the left axle that breaks, therefore pulling to the left. I have found my problem and that is now fixed, usually it happend around lefthand turns, if it ever happens on a straight, the CV was going bad anyway. Usually the yank at the week is not too bad, and can be controlled, especially after it has happened to u once. After all, i miss four walls each time it happened. just my experience, Forget welded go with a SPOOL!
 
Of course, Carroll Smith is talking about 600HP F5000's and CanAm cars in his books, not our little horsepower I.T. cars!

Derek, do you think the welded diff contributed to the CV failures?

MC
#14 GP VW Scirocco - w/ Quaife!
 
Mark,

actually, the breaking of the CV joints had nothing to do with the welded, thats not saying that it helped. I had this problem in '01 and in '02 i broke 0 axles. I found the problem and it was completely unrelated to the welded diff. Still think its the best diff option. After the arrc I am more confident of that than ever.

Derek
 
Tim,
Well i really did not wanna touch the subject, but, when you lower an A1 car to a certain extent, the cv axles are too long and they do not ride in the center of the cv cages. So there are several ways to go about it, one is to make sure that the engine is as far to the passengers side of the car, another is to take the washers out of the cv axle to make it just that much shorter, and then there is the BSI appoach which is to just shorten the axle. anyway u do it, u need to be absolutely safe about 1/8th of an inch to avoid any problems, but again, it depends how low you have your car, how soft the front suspension is, etc. with a welded diff you have to run a soft front suspension, but this is an issue whether u run a welded or a quaife, i have heard of many who have never had this problem, I did not either until about 8 race weekends after i had the car. for some reason the first 8 weekends it was fine, after that i need to shorten the cv axle ever so slightly.
 
Tim,

Take Mark's advvice and dump the 15's. Not only have you raised your ride height, but a 9.5" tire is too much tire for that car. Not to mention that you've lowered your final drive ratio.

Derek,

I've heard about this problem w/ lowered cars, especially A1's.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
<font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">...and then there is the BSI appoach which is to just shorten the axle. ...</font>
Click to expand...

And we are, of course, still talking about Production cars here, right?
smile.gif


Kirk
 
I wondered when someone was going to ask that. Where does it say in the GCR that you can shorten axles? Not that I really care. I wouldn't protest that because I'd rather be running next to someone with less of a chance of a wheel falling off. But as long as you don't polish or performance coat your window washer bottle, you're ok.

If I keep this attitude, will y'all let me run my RR shocks? I still think they were a good idea.

Tom Donnelly
 
There is an IT legal way to alleviate this problem w/o shortening the axles. Install an offset/eccentric bushing in the lower control arm, moving the lower arm out a little bit. As Derek pointed out, all you need is about 1/8". It will also give you a little more negative camber.

MC
#14 GP VW Scirocco
 
Are offset eccentric bushings available anywhere to buy?? My car came with some homemade ones, I have since replaced the right side control arm and would like to replace the left this winter.
 
Assuming you've already purchased Delrin bushings, that are not offset towards the wheel, couldn't you also enlarge the holes in the control arms for the balljoints to slide out a little farther, or at least make sure they are as far out as possible?

PJ

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83 Rabbit GTI - future ITB
 
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