Kill switch wiring

Can the lines which pass through the fire wall be continuous or do they need to be interrupted by one of those bulkhead terminals? I poked around a bit but could not find the answer. Should the line be continuous, what is commonly used to seal the opening?
 
I am suprised that the rules are not more clear on what the requirements are.

I see on the Summit site some pretty neat grommets. But....$18 each??????? :eek::eek::eek:
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I think I will stick with the $10 assortment pack.
 
pfcs49 said:
GUYS! keep this simple AND reliable. Let the kill swx main posts disconnect the battery.
Let one loww current kill swx ground the grounded leg of the ignition coil, killing the engine but leaving all run consumers (fuelpump, etc) to load the alt as it coasts to a stop. (if you don't have a single coil, then put both legs of the low current circuit across the crank sensor, etc.
Not only is this a very simple circuit, but it fails safe in regard to cutting out the engine in competition-if the low current switch gets resistive/corroded, it doesn't effect running, just killing. Phil
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Does anyone know if this simple circuit will do any harm to the MSD ignition system??
 
Hey fellas. Can you check me on my wiring before I apply power? The sketch is attached.
 

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wepsbee said:
Does anyone know if this simple circuit will do any harm to the MSD ignition system??
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I just spoke to MSD tech line with the same question, they recommended wiring the power feed to the box (heavy red wire) through the secondary contacts of the switch but switching switched power wire (smaller red would be acceptable. No damage to box with either according to their tech guy.
Daryl E.
 
group7 said:
I just spoke to MSD tech line with the same question, they recommended wiring the power feed to the box (heavy red wire) through the secondary contacts of the switch but switching switched power wire (smaller red would be acceptable. No damage to box with either according to their tech guy.
Daryl E.
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Thanks for checking!!
 
Joe Foering said:
Greg, is this relevant to a dodge charger? Should I get a kill switch with the 6 terminals (2 lge, 4 sm)?
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Yes, it's relevant to all cars with alternators. I strongly recommend the 6-pole kill switch, with the two large terminals for the battery circuit, the normally-open (NO) circuit for the bleed resistor, and the normally-closed (NC) circuit for the ignition circuit... - GA
 
Quick and dirty way....red battery wire to switch. Jumper from red wire to one side of aux switch. Other side of main switch to starter, etc. Other side of aux switch to wire going to feed fuse box. Done. Start and stop car with key...charge battery...kill everything with kill switch. Chuck
 
chuck baader said:
...kill everything with kill switch.
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And, possibly, your alternator diodes and some electronic components as well due to the surge...that's what the resistor bleed circuit is for: to slowly bleed down all potential energy (voltage), rather than simply shutting the door in its face...

All that voltage gotta go somewhere, and if the battery isn't there to absorb the shock (its secondary purpose is to dampen voltage spikes and act as an electrical accumulator) then something will... - GA
 
Greg, not to be argumentative, but I have wired 5 e30 BMWs that way with no issues. The only problems with the BMWs is when you remove the cluster..you must add a bocking diode to the circuit to replace the one removed from the alternator light. Chuck
 
Just to make life a bit more interesting, most Bosch alternators are internally regulated, and will continue to charge unless you disconnect the main power feed, which will have unpleasant effects on the alternator diodes. I have hooked my kill into the trigger circuit on the main efi relay (Dodge calls it the ASD relay), which on my Neon kills alternator field, ignition and injector pulse. The advantage to using a low amperage circuit like a relay trigger wire is there is no chance of burning up the kill switch. The disadvantage, as I discovered when I installed an unknown used kill switch, is that not only does the car quit charging if there is a problem, the injectors and ignition quit too.:018: Post up the wiring diagram of your cars injection relay, and I'll show ya which wire to cut.
 
as for going through the fire wall......... make a hole the size that heater hose fits snugly through and use that for your cheap grommet, with the batt+ through the hose. $.25 fix
 
Ok, I am finally wiring up the 300zx. It's been 10 years since I wired up the 240sx, and I am embarrassed to say I have forgotten what I did exactly.

So I get the battery part. The secondary circuit will cut the alt. field wire where it circles back to the alternator, to disconnect the alt. circuit.


chuck baader said:
The only problems with the BMWs is when you remove the cluster..you must add a bocking diode to the circuit to replace the one removed from the alternator light. Chuck
Click to expand...

Chuck, I will not have the cluster in the dash, so I would need to add a bocking (sp?) diode in addition to the Bulb Check Relay, which would just be grounded to slowly bleed off any surge or spike at the alternator. Correct?

Greg Amy, jump in on this.

Thanks.
 
Tristan, I'm not familiar with "the BMW problem" and its systems, so I really can't speak to that. However, I consider that circuit with resistor for slowly bleeding electrical potential to ground pretty important (see first post, second diagram)... :shrug:
 
It can be as easy as simply adding a little child and a transient (normally open) switch. Look for the sign "hot" exhaust - is a cable that goes from the center of the leg volume control, and ends at the end "tab on the outlet. Now, add a cable, for example, during the volume control, and welding of this cable to switch (either legs up). Then another wire bond for the remaining leg (the two who want to use) the switch and solder the other end to ground.
 
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