Kill switch wiring

Both my battery wires go through my BCS, with the small wire also going through a toggle switch to the factory imobillizer relay (avaliable at radio/alarm shops). The relay provides power to the energizer side
 
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To revisit this again, I was helping someone over on Honda Tech and went out and checked my ITA CRX

With the cutoff switch to the off position I still have power at the starter and the alternator

This has obviously passed tech many times and I checked the GCR and it passes according to the wording

But does this sound right?


The car shuts off while its running (since it kills power to the ing) but still two components and there wiring still have power

Thanks in advance

davegt74
 
Davegt74 said:
But does this sound right?
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Nope.

The whole point of a kill switch is to remove electrical energy from the entire car, so that nothing is running *and* nothing can spark/short to start a fire. If you have power to anything, then something's wrong.

Without a wiring diagram of your car, there's no way for anyone to troubleshoot what's wrong, but in short you should have a single big wire from the battery positive terminal to the kill switch, then from there to everything else.

I'm going to guess that you have two wires at the battery positive terminal, going to the starter and alternator. Or someone installed your kill switch in some really odd place (like only in the ignition wire).

GA


P.S. Not required by the regs, but you really should have a big fusible link at the battery going to the kill switch. That way if something crushes the wire between the battery and kills switch and shorts it, you're still protected.
 
Greg Amy said:
P.S. Not required by the regs, but you really should have a big fusible link at the battery going to the kill switch. That way if something crushes the wire between the battery and kills switch and shorts it, you're still protected.
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Good point. That's always been a concern of mine with the routing of any relocated battery. My cables run along the right side of the car, strapped to the INSIDE of the cage tubing in the hopes that they don't get crushed in a wreck, but I've always been afraid of that happening. I also just ripped the bigass stereo out of one of my old cars and have a fuseholder capable of holding a 400A fuse.. Any idea what amperage I should use?
 
Greg Amy said:
Depends on your wire size...most cars are around 12AWG, I'm guessing? that would be a 20A fusible link. Of course, if the power wire is shorted to ground, a battery can probably put out 500A before exploding...I suggest it would be best to size the fuse for the wire you're using.

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/American-Wire-Gauge/
http://www.bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php
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There's only about a 10 or 12AWG wire going to the ignition stuff, but from the battery to the kill switch/starter, it's a 4awg wire. big stuff. That's the one that concerns me since it'll easily suck up all of the current the battery can put out until it explodes. (don't ask how I know....)
 
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