Mustang Suspension

Thanks Jim for posting the pictures. I hope everyone understands that the shocks and spings on both the front and the back are independent of each other. There is no magic to what we did, nothing is stronger by the welding in a performance gain in any way.
 
so do i understand right, you basicly cut off the old spring perch and weld the new one in the same location.
 
Even easier than that. The spring perch that I bought was welded right on to the existing perch area. The only cutting was on the pices that were purchased, we trimmed the welded side down about 2 inches as it was to long.
 
I'm going to take a stab at this.

The spring spacer rule is:

Spacers, including threaded units with adjustable spring seats, may be used with coil springs.

In other words, the door is open to add any spring spacer, with any attachment method.

The bushing rule comes to mind. Any bushing material is allowed. Before we were specifically allowed to tack weld them to the control arm, the control arms had to remain untouched. All the rule allowed was a different material. Same could be said about the spring, we get any spring, so long as it's in the same place etc. The spacer allowance is an additional allowance. There was no such additional allowance for the bushings before.

A decent case for welding in spacers? Did I make sense?
 
Makes sense to me. Of course I am the guy that needs to install the things. All I know is that what we are doing offers no additional structural support.
 
Ok. Everything is on the table as far as I can see. What is the general consensus to the legality of our adjustable perches?
 
Beep Beep Beep ____________________________________________ flat line.

I guess this subject is dead? Would have liked some more thoughts on this before I install the front adjustable perches.
 
You can use the same pieces that Ron used, but put the adjuster in the lower arm pocket and don't weld it. If you grind down the edges, it will fit nicely in the arm and pivot a bit as the arm travels. I have done this on a few Mustangs. If I can get a photo of my car I'll post it. On the rears you can use a similar adjuster and just have it lay over the rear arm not welded to it. Not that I think that what Ron did was wrong, but the way my is done prevents others from saying that I am cheating.
 
Sorry I missed the updates here when i was at the ARRC. Chris is right, that's how I did it on my car. The adjuster is loose, but is held under tension. IF it is a concern that it could come out at full droop, then a limiter on the shocks will fix that.
 
You can use the same pieces that Ron used, but put the adjuster in the lower arm pocket and don't weld it. If you grind down the edges, it will fit nicely in the arm and pivot a bit as the arm travels. I have done this on a few Mustangs. If I can get a photo of my car I'll post it. On the rears you can use a similar adjuster and just have it lay over the rear arm not welded to it. Not that I think that what Ron did was wrong, but the way my is done prevents others from saying that I am cheating.
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I would like to see a picture of this. What are you grinding on? It has been said earlier that grinding on anything is cheating. Are you talking about grinding on the adjuster?

Who can I take my car to that has an official say as to the legality of these mods?
 
Yes, the grinding is done on the adjuster.

I just got the car out of storage and have it at work. When I get it up on a hoist I'll take some photos and post them.
 
Here are some pics:[attachmentid=707][attachmentid=708][attachmentid=709]

These are 5" springs on this car
 
These are 5" springs on this car
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It appears that you would not be able to adjust these at the track very easily if you wanted to. I agree that there is no way these could be deemed illegal.
 
Adjusting the rears is very easy. If you need to effect a handling change you can accomplish that by either; adjusting the rear height, adjusting the panhard bar, or changing out the rear bar. I have seen very little need to adjust the front once you have your base ride height.

There are 750's upfront and 275's in the rear.
 
just one question for all of you mustang guys, what spring rates are you useing in the front and rears?
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The rates will vary greatly depending on your set up.

The bushings in the rear create a natural bind which increases the spring rate with compression. This forces you to use a lower spring rate in the rear. If you replaced the bushings with bearings you would use a higher spring rate.

I run 750 front 250 rear. A large front sway-bar and no rear swaybar. I wish it was a little firmer up front.
 
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